Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Louie Anderson (2003)
Page Views: 2,008 total · 16/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Sep 30, 2008 with improvements by Sean Post
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1 (5.6)
Climb up a loose, low-angle water chute to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2(5.10a)
Climb up over a steep bulge and then follow the low-angle face to the left-hand of 2 water shoots. A short, steeper crux section leads up the water chute to the anchor. If you stray onto bigger holds on either side of the water streak, the rock quality diminishes significantly.

Make 2 rappels with a single 60m rope.

Location

The second obvious water chute encountered when hiking in--just past the apron of rock that sticks out at the base of Golden Years.

Protection

8 bolts per pitch, plus a 2-bolt anchor atop each pitch

Photos

Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.9
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.9
Take care on the first couple of moves of P2. There's a cracked hold just above the first bolt off the belay. Make sure you're solid when you step up, and, the belayer is attentive. A fall going to the second bolt would have very bad consequences as you'd deck on/at the P2 belay (flat ledge). Aug 14, 2009
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
The first pitch is very loose, make sure you're belayer and other people on the ground are aware of any rocks that come off.

P2 feels more like 5.8/5.9. Pulling over the roof at the P1 belay station and the finish to the anchors are the only 5.9 moves on P2. I agree, a fall just below the second bolt would land you hard at the P1 belay station. Positive but loose holds throughout. Sep 14, 2009
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10a
The 2nd pitch of "The Serpent" is excellent. Most of the holds seem to be very solid, positive, although small, holds. At the crux the holds to the right of the water streak seem more positive than going straight up over remaining bolts. We pulled off several large loose flakes just below the P1 anchor and cleaned and brushed the holds on the 1st pitch. The yellow-gold mineral coating in the water streak makes the holds solid, but smooth. Nice climb. Oct 20, 2009
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.9
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.9
The first pitch didn't seem near as bad (in terms of loose stuff) apparently as the routes to the right, where some shoebox size blocks were knocked off. First pitch seemed more like 5.4. Feb 6, 2011
Jeff Lee11
Thousand Oaks, CA
  5.10a
Jeff Lee11   Thousand Oaks, CA
  5.10a
The second pitch has 9 bolts, not 8, unless you skip the first bolt that's fairly close to the anchors. Nov 26, 2017
Craig M
  5.9-
Craig M  
  5.9-
This is a good warm up. Did it in 1 pitch & 2 raps. (70m rope) Jul 5, 2018