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Routes in Easy Street

Babe Ruth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blackjack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blackout S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Casey at the Bat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Charlie Hustle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirty Deeds S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dugout S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Slumbers S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Golden Years S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harvey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Wound S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hippie Chick S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psychedelic Sally S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Righteous Babe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rockhopper S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Serpent, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Watermark S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 690 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Nov 6, 2007
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Grotto and Lookout closed Details

Description

An extension from the dual anchors at P1 of Righteous Babe, Head Wound, or Rockhopper. Head left as for Righteous Babe and move right to the steeper of the two headwalls as the route splits. Pulls onto a vertical wall with thin, questionable holds. The first couple moves are thin and look like some holds have recently broken. I don't think a valid rating will apply to this route until it sees more traffic and whatever holds are strong enough to stick around start to stick out. Still a lot of loose rock.

I can't be definitive about the length. I know a 60 meter gets you down with room to spare. Can't speak to a 50m, so I called it at 90 feet per pitch.

Location

Go left from the double anchors, then right when sitting between the two headwalls.

Protection

Well bolted. 9 bolts plus anchor.

Photos

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Jeff Edge
  5.9+
Jeff Edge  
  5.9+
assuming i was on the route described, i think the rock is much better now. been a few years since the last comments Apr 10, 2015
RussellG  
 
Could be fun if it were cleaned. In reality, though, there is too much other stuff to do here that's way better. Aug 7, 2012
drawagoat  
 
Climbed April 2010. The rock felt very sketchy in first moves. Also agree that this should probably not have been bolted. Better routes are nearby. May 18, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
new anchor. Dec 6, 2009
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Felt more like a 5.9+ than 10c. Tough start move leads to positive but loose holds all the way to the top. As of 9/13/09, there was a bail biner at the last anchor, fun upper section to this wall. Agree that this wall probably should not have been bolted. Works as a TR. BIG rocks came off this wall all day long.

Two raps on a 60m will get you to the ground. Sep 14, 2009
AS of 2/28/2009 there are no anchors at the top of this climb. I spoke to someone who believes that the ancores have blown off with a chunk of rock. there is a bail beiner about 8 feet from the top. the rock is very loose and exstreamly scetchy. this face probly should not have been bolted. Mar 2, 2009