Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 811 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Nov 6, 2007
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Echo Cliffs - Grotto and Lookout closed Details

Description

An extension from the dual anchors at P1 of Righteous Babe, Head Wound, or Rockhopper. Head left as for Righteous Babe and move right to the steeper of the two headwalls as the route splits. Pulls onto a vertical wall with thin, questionable holds. The first couple moves are thin and look like some holds have recently broken. I don't think a valid rating will apply to this route until it sees more traffic and whatever holds are strong enough to stick around start to stick out. Still a lot of loose rock.

I can't be definitive about the length. I know a 60 meter gets you down with room to spare. Can't speak to a 50m, so I called it at 90 feet per pitch.

Location

Go left from the double anchors, then right when sitting between the two headwalls.

Protection

Well bolted. 9 bolts plus anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
AS of 2/28/2009 there are no anchors at the top of this climb. I spoke to someone who believes that the ancores have blown off with a chunk of rock. there is a bail beiner about 8 feet from the top. the rock is very loose and exstreamly scetchy. this face probly should not have been bolted. Mar 2, 2009
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Felt more like a 5.9+ than 10c. Tough start move leads to positive but loose holds all the way to the top. As of 9/13/09, there was a bail biner at the last anchor, fun upper section to this wall. Agree that this wall probably should not have been bolted. Works as a TR. BIG rocks came off this wall all day long.

Two raps on a 60m will get you to the ground. Sep 14, 2009
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
new anchor. Dec 6, 2009
drawagoat  
 
Climbed April 2010. The rock felt very sketchy in first moves. Also agree that this should probably not have been bolted. Better routes are nearby. May 18, 2010
RussellG  
 
Could be fun if it were cleaned. In reality, though, there is too much other stuff to do here that's way better. Aug 7, 2012
Jeff Edge
  5.9+
Jeff Edge  
  5.9+
assuming i was on the route described, i think the rock is much better now. been a few years since the last comments Apr 10, 2015
Erick Santos
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10a/b PG13
Erick Santos   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10a/b PG13
Climbed this as of 1/15/18 and to my surprise nothing came off but I was incredibly nervous leading this. Hardest part was after the first initial clip on the vertical face. I suggest avoiding this, really not worth it. Jan 15, 2018