Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Serpent

5.9, Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 22 votes
FA: Louie Anderson (2003)
California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mo… > Echo Cliffs > Easy Street

Description

Pitch 1 (5.6)
Climb up a loose, low-angle water chute to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2(5.10a)
Climb up over a steep bulge and then follow the low-angle face to the left-hand of 2 water shoots. A short, steeper crux section leads up the water chute to the anchor. If you stray onto bigger holds on either side of the water streak, the rock quality diminishes significantly.

Make 2 rappels with a single 60m rope.

Location

The second obvious water chute encountered when hiking in--just past the apron of rock that sticks out at the base of Golden Years.

Protection

8 bolts per pitch, plus a 2-bolt anchor atop each pitch

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbers on P2 of "Harvey" (left) and P1 of "The Serpent" (right), on a busy day at Echo Cliffs.
[Hide Photo] Climbers on P2 of "Harvey" (left) and P1 of "The Serpent" (right), on a busy day at Echo Cliffs.
From the top of The Serpent with Brian Morin
[Hide Photo] From the top of The Serpent with Brian Morin
Brian Morin on pitch 2 of The Serpent
[Hide Photo] Brian Morin on pitch 2 of The Serpent
Summit photo on The Serpent with Brian Morin.
[Hide Photo] Summit photo on The Serpent with Brian Morin.
Banks crushin' the first pitch of the Serpent.
[Hide Photo] Banks crushin' the first pitch of the Serpent.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Take care on the first couple of moves of P2. There's a cracked hold just above the first bolt off the belay. Make sure you're solid when you step up, and, the belayer is attentive. A fall going to the second bolt would have very bad consequences as you'd deck on/at the P2 belay (flat ledge). Aug 14, 2009
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
[Hide Comment] The first pitch is very loose, make sure you're belayer and other people on the ground are aware of any rocks that come off.

P2 feels more like 5.8/5.9. Pulling over the roof at the P1 belay station and the finish to the anchors are the only 5.9 moves on P2. I agree, a fall just below the second bolt would land you hard at the P1 belay station. Positive but loose holds throughout. Sep 14, 2009
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] The 2nd pitch of "The Serpent" is excellent. Most of the holds seem to be very solid, positive, although small, holds. At the crux the holds to the right of the water streak seem more positive than going straight up over remaining bolts. We pulled off several large loose flakes just below the P1 anchor and cleaned and brushed the holds on the 1st pitch. The yellow-gold mineral coating in the water streak makes the holds solid, but smooth. Nice climb. Oct 20, 2009
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The first pitch didn't seem near as bad (in terms of loose stuff) apparently as the routes to the right, where some shoebox size blocks were knocked off. First pitch seemed more like 5.4. Feb 6, 2011
Jeff Lee11
Thousand Oaks, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] The second pitch has 9 bolts, not 8, unless you skip the first bolt that's fairly close to the anchors. Nov 26, 2017
Craig M
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] This is a good warm up. Did it in 1 pitch & 2 raps. (70m rope) Jul 5, 2018