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Routes in Easy Street

Babe Ruth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blackjack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blackout S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Casey at the Bat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Charlie Hustle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirty Deeds S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dugout S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Slumbers S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Golden Years S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harvey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Wound S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hippie Chick S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Psychedelic Sally S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Righteous Babe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rockhopper S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Serpent, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Watermark S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Louie Anderson, Doniel Drazin
Page Views: 4,738 total · 33/month
Shared By: Meredith DB on Jul 2, 2006
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Grotto and Lookout closed Details

Description

Pitch 1: Start up the black-streaked, overhanging face. There is an anchor just after the end of the overhanging section that can be used to descend if you are only climbing the first pitch. Otherwise, continue to the higher anchor in the corner.

Pitch 2: Move right from the anchor and climb up beautiful edges.

Pitch 3: Continue with easy moves on somewhat crumbly rock to the top of the cliff.

Descend from the top by three rappels with a 60-meter rope.

Location

This is the leftmost route on the Easy Street/Far Side section of the wall. The start is 75 yards past the Kamikaze Cave.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

Stephen D
  5.10d PG13
Stephen D  
  5.10d PG13
Maybe I'm just a wimp but in my opinion the opening moves on P2 warrant a pg-13 rating.
You're pulling some solid 5.9 moves on chossy flexing plates/crimps with a 10 foot nasty ledge fall if you blow it.
My max lead is only a 5.11a and my partners was 5.11c so we're probably not representative of climbers at Echo - I guess if you're climb 5.13 (like many here) then it's PG.
Loved the climb. P3 is short and the top out is worth it. Had a blast! My first time here and wanted to thank the people who developed it and whoever is replacing anchors. Nov 12, 2016
strutz
5.10c/d
strutz  
5.10c/d
First pitch is definitely more difficult than the second. I'm in agreement that the first pitch felt more like a 10D than B. My partner regularly climbs 5.12- and had to take while following. P2 was good. Bit ran out getting to the first bolt and I'd recommend staying right as much as possible when leading. Rock on the left side seemed a bit hollow.

Overall a great climb once you get past the tough first pitch. Mar 14, 2016
H. Lord
  5.10d
H. Lord  
  5.10d
First pitch is definitely harder than .10b, I've climbed it with people that can do high 11's and watched them struggle.

That said, if you can make it through the awful first pitch, the rest of the climb is definitely worth doing all the way up to 200 feet.

The second pitch is far and away the best part of the route, with solid 10b climbing and a small cave for a belay station that provides much-welcomed shade on a sunny day. Third pitch is an easy but worthwhile climb to the top where you can stand on the top and soak in the exposure.

We linked the rapel from the third and second pitch with a 70 meter rope, but make sure you have your center marked because you can't see the ends. It's probably a better idea to link the lower two rappels, but the anchor at the top of the 2nd pitch just isn't as comfortable as the others. Apr 24, 2013
Joe Dondero
Sunnyvale, CA
  5.10c
Joe Dondero   Sunnyvale, CA
  5.10c
Just wanted to confirm that you can indeed rap from the 2nd anchor to the bottom with a 60m rope, just barely. Feb 27, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Yeah, about June of 2006 a very large portion the the climb right of the 3rd & 4th bolts came off. I remember climbing P1 to a jug formed by a very large black flake that no longer exists. Now you just see a large brown "boiler-plate" like depression that you can undercling the top of to get to the 5th bolt. I wouldn't have wanted to be the belayer that day!! A lot of folks take for granted that the climbs are as clean and solid as they are, but these routes were once very loose and the cliff is constantly in transition and shedding flakes and holds. I agree the rating now feels more like 5.10c/d. Dec 15, 2009
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
  5.10c
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
  5.10c
The second pitch is 5.10c according to Andersons guide. Supposedly something has broken off the first pitch, and I found it harder than the second.

You can link pitches 1&2 for a stellar 100 ft climb. We did this and our 60 meter rope barely made it when lowering. Dec 6, 2009
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.10c/d
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.10c/d
I think the description got flipped, it's more like 3 pitches 200 feet, not 2 pitches 300 feet.

Apparently something broke off somewhere around the 3rd to 4th bolt on P1. The jugs vanish and you have a couple moves through some crimpers, a pinch and eventually an undercling. It's a good route, but not 10b, IMHO.

Alternately, you can just move right onto some less interesting climbing on choss & jugs. It'd probably go at around 10b. Nov 4, 2007

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