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Head Wound [Suggest Change]
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.2 from 40
votes
Routes in Easy Street
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Babe Ruth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blackjack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blackout S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Casey at the Bat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Charlie Hustle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dirty Deeds S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dugout S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Golden Slumbers S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Golden Years S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Harvey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Head Wound S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hippie Chick S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Psychedelic Sally S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Righteous Babe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rockhopper S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Serpent, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Watermark S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Doniel Drazin |
| Page Views: | 3,023 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Kelly on Nov 5, 2007 |
| Admins: | jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Grotto and Lookout closed
Details
Climbs upstream from "Miss Pacman" and "Gameboy" on river right and upstream of "Xanadu" on river left are closed until further notice as required to protect a sensitive, federally listed plant species. For more information, see: nps.gov/samo/planyourvisit/… and nps.gov/samo/planyourvisit/…
Description [Suggest Change]
P1: (5.7) Climbs another channel just to the right of massive black waterstreak in the channel of Righteous Babe. A lot of loose rock, I can only wonder how this route got it's name. Considering it finishes at the double anchor I suggest just sticking to Righteous Babe's first pitch, it's better.
P2: (5.9) A great pitch, best finish from the dual anchors of the three choices you have. From the anchor climb right, following the bolt line to a vertical section. A couple of fun moves pull you onto the wall where it eases up a bit. The end holds one more surprise, best moves of the route.
I can't be definitive about the length. I know a 60 meter gets you down with room to spare. Can't speak to a 50m, so I called it at 90 feet per pitch.
P2: (5.9) A great pitch, best finish from the dual anchors of the three choices you have. From the anchor climb right, following the bolt line to a vertical section. A couple of fun moves pull you onto the wall where it eases up a bit. The end holds one more surprise, best moves of the route.
I can't be definitive about the length. I know a 60 meter gets you down with room to spare. Can't speak to a 50m, so I called it at 90 feet per pitch.
Location [Suggest Change]
Starts in a channel about 10 feet right of the channel with the dark watermark where Righteous Babe starts.
From the first anchors go right.
From the first anchors go right.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Well bolted. Take 9 draws plus gear for the anchors. Mussy hooks at the first anchor, sport shuts at the top.
Sandy, Utah
Rock quality may have cleaned up some. We didn't notice much loose rock as of 13 August 2009. Cheers. Aug 15, 2009
Glendora
Ventura, California
This makes no sense.
It seems there are a lot of routes on MP that have different ratings than the guide book (Louie Anderson 2nd addition) hmmm. Feb 16, 2017