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Routes in Reef Rock on Mica Mt.

(2) Short Story T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
(1) J- Cubed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(3) Mystery Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1 PG13
(4) Supergoat and the Singing Sardines T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(5) Cryptic Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(5a) MC Runner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
(6) Bombs Away T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(7) Fiona's Feelin' Groovy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 530 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Asher Sussman, M.M., J.Do., J.Mw., 7/08
Page Views: 783 total, 7/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Sep 19, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

1. Climb chimney 50 feet to an awkward exit move around a block. Belay off any of a number of big trees that you will also use as the last rap station. (5.7 50 ft.)
2. Straight above you’ll see a square roof. The next belay is on the ledge just right. Diagonal right past a sloping ledge to gain crack at small bulge. Follow this crack up to the right side of a small ledge. A fixed pin at the left end of the ledge can be backed up with small stoppers and a sling thru a tunnel. (5.8 110 ft.) [a 5.8 var. climbs face and cracks between this line and the main chimney.]
3. Stem and layback to the end of the crack where you can step right onto a ledge with a boulder and 2 bolts. (5.8 100 ft.)
4. Head right, crossing “FFG,” to a curving flake. Exit right when rock gets steep and gritty to short cracks that lead up past small tree. Look for a left diagonalling ramp that heads toward the long chimney and belay at 2 bolts just shy of the chimney (same as p. 3 belay of “FFG”). (5.7 150 ft.)
5. Diagonal up and right thru small cracks to huge ledge with 2 bolts. (5.6+ 120 ft.)

Descent: IF you have 60 M ropes, rap the route, skipping the pin belay at the top of pitch 2.
IF you have 50 M ropes, you’ll have to rig up a rap at the pin belay or on pitch #2 somewhere.
It is possible to walk off way right along ledges and down thru brushy gullies to the base of the climb.

Location

On the far right end of the wall , just before turning a corner and heading up to a shorter orange section of cliff is a low-angle series of weaknesses. Start 50 feet left of a huge madrone tree, (which marks the start of “FFG,”) in a short chimney with a deep sloping floor.

Protection

"Standard" with doubles of cams to #3, and a #4. A #5 camalot was used but probably not necessary. Smaller tri-cams are handy.

Photos

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