Type: Trad, 530 ft (161 m), 5 pitches
GPS: 32.21208, -110.52887
FA: Asher Sussman, M.M., J.Do., J.Mw., 7/08
Page Views: 1,695 total · 8/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Sep 19, 2008
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

1. Climb chimney 50 feet to an awkward exit move around a block. Belay off any of a number of big trees that you will also use as the last rap station. (5.7 50 ft.)
2. Straight above you’ll see a square roof. The next belay is on the ledge just right. Diagonal right past a sloping ledge to gain crack at small bulge. Follow this crack up to the right side of a small ledge. A fixed pin at the left end of the ledge can be backed up with small stoppers and a sling thru a tunnel. (5.8 110 ft.) [a 5.8 var. climbs face and cracks between this line and the main chimney.]
3. Stem and layback to the end of the crack where you can step right onto a ledge with a boulder and 2 bolts. (5.8 100 ft.)
4. Head right, crossing “FFG,” to a curving flake. Exit right when rock gets steep and gritty to short cracks that lead up past small tree. Look for a left diagonalling ramp that heads toward the long chimney and belay at 2 bolts just shy of the chimney (same as p. 3 belay of “FFG”). (5.7 150 ft.)
5. Diagonal up and right thru small cracks to huge ledge with 2 bolts. (5.6+ 120 ft.)

Descent: IF you have 60 M ropes, rap the route, skipping the pin belay at the top of pitch 2.
IF you have 50 M ropes, you’ll have to rig up a rap at the pin belay or on pitch #2 somewhere.
It is possible to walk off way right along ledges and down thru brushy gullies to the base of the climb.

Location Suggest change

On the far right end of the wall , just before turning a corner and heading up to a shorter orange section of cliff is a low-angle series of weaknesses. Start 50 feet left of a huge madrone tree, (which marks the start of “FFG,”) in a short chimney with a deep sloping floor.

Protection Suggest change

"Standard" with doubles of cams to #3, and a #4. A #5 camalot was used but probably not necessary. Smaller tri-cams are handy.

Photos

0 Comments