Type: Trad, 750 ft, 4 pitches
FA: JFx, JMw 11/2010
Page Views: 422 total · 4/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Nov 23, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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1. Climb beautiful chimney 180' to it's end then out exit crack and belay above. (5.8 190')

2. Finish crack and diagonal up left toward bulge above(up and right is a rampy slot that looked too hard with no pro.) You should see a bolt on the "Mystery Route" about 30 feet left of where you can find a couple pieces to protect bulge moves to a short crack. Continue up, then left out left end of long overhang. Belay at bolt and pin on nice ledge above. (5.9 170')

3. Tricky moves up and right lead over to a crack that soon Y's. Take the right branch basically heading straight up and belay at rope's end where possible. If you take the left crack it will lead to another 2 bolt anchor/rap station for the Mystery Route. (If you belay there you might not have enough rope to finish in one more pitch) (5.6 200')

4. Up and left is the main chimney that J-Cubed finishes in. On the right side is a fat flake that you can chimney up to stemming between a detached fin and the main wall. Good pro in a short crack gives way to a bit of a runout after stepping over to the main wall. Hard to find gear protects final easy moves to the top. (5.8 190')

Descent: Scramble down long descent gully on left side of wall... or walk right along top and try to find the raps down "Bombs Away"... or:
Cross down (4th class)to left side of J-Cubed's chimney, looking for rap off tree and boulder. (1)Rap to 2 bolts. (2)Rap to top of pitch 2. (3)Rap down and slightly (climber's) left to a bolt and pin in a crack. (4) Rap to ground.


From the left descent gully, walk along the base of the rock for a couple hundred feet to the first chimney, just past the hard to see bolts of "The Mystery Route." (See topo picture under main heading.)


Standard backcountry rack with a #4 -- a #5 is handy on the first pitch.
2 ropes for the raps--60M ropes are best for the climb.


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