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Routes in Reef Rock on Mica Mt.

(2) Short Story T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
(1) J- Cubed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(3) Mystery Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1 PG13
(4) Supergoat and the Singing Sardines T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(5) Cryptic Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(5a) MC Runner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
(6) Bombs Away T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(7) Fiona's Feelin' Groovy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Asher Sussman, JMw
Page Views: 373 total, 7/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Jul 6, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Approximately 70' to the right of Cryptic Friction is a wide, rampy slot that leads to parallel cracks running through overhangs. 4th class up to a nice belay nook next to a tree.

1. Diagonal to the left crack, which seemed cleaner, and continue just past small overhang and belay on nice ledge on the left. (5.6 100')
2. Climb crack through right side of roof. Up thin crack/flake to get high gear then traverse right to better crack/flake. Soon an easy exit right leads up and then back left to pass the next roof on the right. A tricky bulge move leads to easier ground that eventually lands you on a large ledge with a tree, just below the huge ledge system. (5.7+ 180') (If you aren't using double ropes with good runnering, you might have to break this into 2 pitches.)
3. Wander up easy, runout bulges to gigantic ledge and belay. (5.5 100') (Scoot left to even easier ramps off the belay if you don't like the runout.)
4. Shift the belay right along ledge to the base of the steepening chimney.
5. Climb chimney then continue the diagonal, belaying where comfortable. There is a nice little ledge at about 180'. (5.6 180')
6. Continue diagonalling right and up until you can cross the top of a large chimney to a 2-bolt anchor. This is basically the top of “Bombs Away” and is the first rap station. You can easily scramble to the summit from here. (5.6 100')

Descent: Rap “Bombs Away”

Protection

Standard backcountry rack up to #4 Camalot or equivalent

Photos

JMayhew
Tucson, AZ
 
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
 
This was named for our new best friend, Ben, who made an extra trip to Manning Camp while we were climbing to supply us with 8 Liters of much needed water. Jul 7, 2013