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Routes in Reef Rock on Mica Mt.

(2) Short Story T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
(1) J- Cubed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(3) Mystery Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1 PG13
(4) Supergoat and the Singing Sardines T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(5) Cryptic Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(5a) MC Runner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
(6) Bombs Away T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(7) Fiona's Feelin' Groovy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 570 ft, 4 pitches
FA: J.N., J.D., J.Mw., 6/08
Page Views: 1,041 total, 9/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Sep 19, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

1. Climb crack under pointy block, traverse left to chimney and belay about 10 ft. below end of chimney on small stance. If rope drag is too bad, belay lower. (5.7 130 ft.)
2. Diagonal right to bulge move at left end of narrow ledge. Left and up to fun stemming scoop that can be avoided on right. Clip bolt then diagonal up and left to chimney. Belay at tree on ledge. [Take note of the 2 bolt rap station further left on the other side of a large boulder. That is the top of pitch 3 of “Bombs Away” and also the rap route.] (5.7+ 120 ft.)
3. Fun chimney (if you like chimneys!) to 2 bolts at a ledge. (5.7 140 ft.)
4. Finish chimney then straight up thru cracks and bulges to top. (5.6 130 ft.) [At top of chimney you can also step right to 2 bolt belay/rap station at top of “Bombs Away.”]



Descent: If you’ve gone to the very top, hike back down to huge ledge that you passed with 2 bolts. (Rap “Bombs Away”): 1) Rap to 2 bolts at top of pitch 3 of “FFG”. 2) Rap to 2 bolts next to large block about 30 feet left of tree belay at top of pitch 2 of “FFG”. 3) Rap 180 feet to large trees at top of first chimney pitch on “Bombs Away.” 4) Rap 50 feet off tree to ground.

Location

On the far right end of the wall, just before turning the corner and heading up to a shorter orange section of cliff is a low-angle series of weaknesses. Start at a huge madrone tree about 50 right of a chimney. A crack leads past a pointy block. You can 3rd class in from the right to get on top of this block but the crack is fun.

Protection

"Standard" with doubles of cams to #3, and a #4. A #5 camalot was used but probably not necessary. Smaller tri-cams are handy.

Photos

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