(5) Cryptic Friction
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 650 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Michael McClung, Joe Drago, J.Mw., 6/08|
|Page Views:||775 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||JMayhew on Sep 19, 2008|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Description1. Climb crack to a small ledge and belay. (5.8 170 ft.)
2. Continue up crack a short ways until you can diagonal left out of original crack along a flake/crack to main corner with a tricky exit move. Up easier ground to belay at the left end of large, jungle ledge. (5.8+ 160 ft.)
Shift belay right, thru jungle to base of flake system and chimney.
3. A tricky boulder move gains a long flake system that is to the left of the main chimney. At its top, diagonal right to another shorter flake/crack and belay on a small ledge under a shallow roof. (5.8+ 130 ft.)
4. Undercling right and turn corner, continuing along easier ground to the top. (5.9 180 ft.)
(Pitch 3 and 4 variation: Climb chimney. 5.7 FA JFx, Susan Brownell, JMw)
Descent: Head back and left down steep descent gully as for J- Cubed, or walk to far right end of the wall and rap Bombs Away.