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Routes in Reef Rock on Mica Mt.

(1) J- Cubed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(2) Short Story T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
(3) Mystery Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1 PG13
(4) Supergoat and the Singing Sardines T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(5) Cryptic Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(5a) MC Runner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
(6) Bombs Away T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(7) Fiona's Feelin' Groovy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 650 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Michael McClung, Joe Drago, J.Mw., 6/08
Page Views: 792 total · 7/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Sep 19, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

1. Climb crack to a small ledge and belay. (5.8 170 ft.)
2. Continue up crack a short ways until you can diagonal left out of original crack along a flake/crack to main corner with a tricky exit move. Up easier ground to belay at the left end of large, jungle ledge. (5.8+ 160 ft.)
Shift belay right, thru jungle to base of flake system and chimney.
3. A tricky boulder move gains a long flake system that is to the left of the main chimney. At its top, diagonal right to another shorter flake/crack and belay on a small ledge under a shallow roof. (5.8+ 130 ft.)
4. Undercling right and turn corner, continuing along easier ground to the top. (5.9 180 ft.)
(Pitch 3 and 4 variation: Climb chimney. 5.7 FA JFx, Susan Brownell, JMw)

Descent: Head back and left down steep descent gully as for ”J- Cubed,” or walk to far right end of the wall and rap “Bombs Away”.

Location

At the middle of the wall is a huge block that rests on the main wall. This route starts in a long crack that is to the right and behind this block. The last 2 pitches finish just left of a long, obvious orange stain that is clearly visible from the trail. 4th class up to a small nook with a tree at the base of the crack.

Protection

"Standard" with doubles of cams to #3, and a #4. A #5 camalot was used but probably not necessary. Smaller tri-cams are handy.

Photos

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
Looks like a pretty good route. Why only the two stars? Sep 20, 2008
JMayhew
Tucson, AZ
 
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
 
They're all excellent routes, in my opinion. I discovered a long while ago that I use a different set of standards than most people, so I stopped rating climbs. (Seems people like solid rock and good pro!) In posting these I couldn't continue unless I rated them so I went with "good." I'll let people make up their own minds. Definitely worth the hike out there--if you're into that kind of thing. Sep 20, 2008
JFox
Cottonwood
  5.9
JFox   Cottonwood
  5.9
A big walk from Happy Valley (took us four hours to Spud Rock Springs) leads to one of the prettiest camp sites on earth, a stone throw from the cliff. A bunch of great, big routes in a very remote setting, most under 5.10. Rock quality is excellent and gear is generally good. Nov 21, 2010

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