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Routes in Reef Rock on Mica Mt.

(2) Short Story T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
(1) J- Cubed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(3) Mystery Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C1 PG13
(4) Supergoat and the Singing Sardines T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(5) Cryptic Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(5a) MC Runner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
(6) Bombs Away T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(7) Fiona's Feelin' Groovy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 650 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Michael McClung, Joe Drago, J.Mw., 6/08
Page Views: 763 total, 7/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Sep 19, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

1. Climb crack to a small ledge and belay. (5.8 170 ft.)
2. Continue up crack a short ways until you can diagonal left out of original crack along a flake/crack to main corner with a tricky exit move. Up easier ground to belay at the left end of large, jungle ledge. (5.8+ 160 ft.)
Shift belay right, thru jungle to base of flake system and chimney.
3. A tricky boulder move gains a long flake system that is to the left of the main chimney. At its top, diagonal right to another shorter flake/crack and belay on a small ledge under a shallow roof. (5.8+ 130 ft.)
4. Undercling right and turn corner, continuing along easier ground to the top. (5.9 180 ft.)
(Pitch 3 and 4 variation: Climb chimney. 5.7 FA JFx, Susan Brownell, JMw)

Descent: Head back and left down steep descent gully as for ”J- Cubed,” or walk to far right end of the wall and rap “Bombs Away”.

Location

At the middle of the wall is a huge block that rests on the main wall. This route starts in a long crack that is to the right and behind this block. The last 2 pitches finish just left of a long, obvious orange stain that is clearly visible from the trail. 4th class up to a small nook with a tree at the base of the crack.

Protection

"Standard" with doubles of cams to #3, and a #4. A #5 camalot was used but probably not necessary. Smaller tri-cams are handy.

Photos

JFox
Cottonwood
  5.9
JFox   Cottonwood
  5.9
A big walk from Happy Valley (took us four hours to Spud Rock Springs) leads to one of the prettiest camp sites on earth, a stone throw from the cliff. A bunch of great, big routes in a very remote setting, most under 5.10. Rock quality is excellent and gear is generally good. Nov 21, 2010
JMayhew
Tucson, AZ
 
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
 
They're all excellent routes, in my opinion. I discovered a long while ago that I use a different set of standards than most people, so I stopped rating climbs. (Seems people like solid rock and good pro!) In posting these I couldn't continue unless I rated them so I went with "good." I'll let people make up their own minds. Definitely worth the hike out there--if you're into that kind of thing. Sep 20, 2008
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
Looks like a pretty good route. Why only the two stars? Sep 20, 2008