Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Petch Pietrolungo
Page Views: 1,991 total · 16/month
Shared By: snowhazed on Aug 9, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

48 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


5.9 face with cracks for pro, or 10a face with a bolt gains fun wide hands with tons of features on the face for feet.


Two number 3 camalots if you want to sew it up.


- No Photos -
san mateo
powderfinger   san mateo
The 5.9 start is the variation and the 10a start is the start for the route. The 10a bit is a couple of fun moves over a small roof that is well protected by a bolt. The hand size crack with dikes intersecting it is great for folks who are new to crack climbing. Oct 17, 2010
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
Do the direct 5.10a start. Undercling and smear to pull the roof. Fun lead and the bolt protects it very well. The crack starts out as a finger crack and widens to a perfect splitter hand crack. I put in #0.4 cam down low and then a #3 cam. Was able to back clean the #3 and just kept moving it up as I progressed to the top.

I think Supertopo only gives this route 2 stars but I give it 4. I really enjoyed it. Jun 11, 2013
Pavel Burov
Pavel Burov   Russia
Nice face climb with a solid trad gear protection. There are possibilities to place everything from small nuts to wide hands size cam. Also it is not that hard to setup a toprope after climbing Hogwild to the right. I would say this climb is a good "gym to trad" transition playground. Bring here pro of all kind and learn how to place it (note, if you do not fall on your gear you do not know how to place it, set up a TR backup). Jun 29, 2015
Pavel it sounds like you might have been on No Gaynor, which is just left of Hogwild. Mixologist goes up the splitter crack in the arete 45 ft right of Hogwild, and would be very difficult to access from Hogwild. Sep 25, 2017