Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,306 total · 40/month
Shared By: GMBurns on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Climb the shallow, right-facing corner and step right, following the bolts. Then climb the path of least resistance straight up to the top. A 70m rope or doubles / twins are needed to get down.


On the right side of the Hogwild crag, take a left where the path meets the crag and walk uphill to where the path again meets the cliff. There should be a large, left-facing corner about 20 feet your right. Climb the shallow right-facing corner straight up the dikes to the chains above.


Mostly bolted, but small to medium sized cams work well at the top for extra protection.


Rick Casey
Fort Collins, CO
Rick Casey   Fort Collins, CO
Did this yesterday, and the crux was certainly getting past the first and second bolts, where the face moves felt more like 5.8 than 5.7 -- well protected, but thin moves for the grade. Sep 23, 2008
A very good climb, hard for the grade in my opinion. I used a small cam placement before the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and nuts and cams higher up. The gear is small and tricky on this climb, but you can get a lot in if you work at it. The first part is classic Lover's Leap balancy dike mantling. The flake for the top 30 feet is very positive and a fantastic finish to this climb. Need two ropes to rap unless you have a 70 meter rope. Jun 16, 2012
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
Not the best .7 at the Leap as the Supertopo claims, but a nice mixed line nonetheless.

I do not think this would be a good route for a 5.7/5.8 leader due to the committing run-outs. Aug 6, 2012
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
Needs a confident approach and tricky to get good gear in. UK grade probably HVS 4c - harder than I would expect for "5.7". Sep 14, 2012
I actually loved this route and the adrenaline rush from finishing it help it earn its stars. sustained and runout for sure - good adrenaline rush. I was SO grateful I had a set of offset nuts for this. May 29, 2013
Davis, CA
AndrewB   Davis, CA
Felt like there was one tough move (thin hands and feet) right at the first bolt. Everything else felt 5.7. Placed two nuts before the first bolt, then a few cams above the last bolt. Jul 23, 2013
Josh C
Somewhere out West
Josh C   Somewhere out West
Gotta agree with some of the other posters. You should be a confident 5.7 (or maybe even 5.8) leader. The start before the slab requires proficiency at placing gear and the slab section is more sporty than runout. Though I sure was happy to grab that flake after the slab. A great single pitch climb and a worthwhile tick. Jan 28, 2015
Pavel Burov
Pavel Burov   Russia
Technically it is an easy climb with a lot of variations to the left or to the right. Although it would be a kind of "bold" climb for inexperienced 5.7 leader. Be sure you are confident at the grade.

70m rope is barely enough to rappel down. Watch your rope ends! Some 70m ropes are shorter, some are longer.

To TR the fun climb to the left elongate the anchor with four or so double shoulder slings and bring a couple mid to hand size cams to set a directional. Jun 29, 2015
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
Agree with AndrewB. Move at the first bolt felt like 5.8 or harder. I don't see how the climb just to the left of this could be rated harder. Aug 3, 2015
Vlada Matena
5.7 PG13
Vlada Matena  
5.7 PG13
After rappelling with two 60m ropes joined by a knot, do not pull your rope directly down to the start of the route. If you do this, the rope might get stuck in the cracks under the anchor (this happened to me and I had to re-climb the route to unstuck it). It is better to move 15 - 20 feet to left and pull the rope down from there. Oct 14, 2016
Latvian climber
  5.7+ PG13
Latvian climber  
  5.7+ PG13
Very heads up, not for the fledgling 5.7 leader at all. The book says gear .5 to 1.5 but I thought it was more like 0.3 to 1, with some micro nuts thrown in for good measure. Way more committing (but because of that, also more fun) than I expected. My rope is about 64 meters since I cut it and I barely made it to the ground. Jun 3, 2018
William Holmquist
spokane WA
William Holmquist   spokane WA
Feels more like 5.8 to 5.9 because of run outs nd some thin slab moves protected by periodic bolts. Need a 70m to make it down. We climbed with a 60m and had a pain in the ass rappel off to climbers right where there is an anchor in a tree. Super annoying getting there but it worked. Sep 21, 2018
Kyle Faubion
Redwood City, CA
Kyle Faubion   Redwood City, CA
This was the most sustained 5.7 I've been on. I'm glad to see I wasn't the only one! Super fun but felt like it didn't let up and I was in the "oh it's only 5.7 mind set." picked it because I thought it would be good for my GF to follow, not the case. Great climb though!!! Jan 15, 2019