Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Petch |
Page Views: | 2,299 total · 34/month |
Shared By: | Matt Hostetler on Oct 6, 2018 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Fun simple face climbing on dikes to an interesting flake section ending at a two bolt anchor with mussy hooks
P1. A few bolts on pretty easy dikes to thin hollow flakes. Careful placing gear in the flakes otherwise they are not going anywhere. Ends at mussy hooks at a good stance.
P2. Couple of bolts on less featured terrain, Crux?, to a well protected (#3) small roof. Few more bolts on dirty holds. Chains at good stance need quick links.
P3. Some more bolts and trad gear on dirty holds past some loose blocks. Fun and awkward roof, protects well (#.5-.75) and not too technical. Chains at good stance need quick links.
I suggest rapping from here. Single 70m no problem, single 60m unconfirmed.
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