[Hide Comment] Did this yesterday, and the crux was certainly getting past the first and second bolts, where the face moves felt more like 5.8 than 5.7 -- well protected, but thin moves for the grade. Sep 23, 2008

[Hide Comment] A very good climb, hard for the grade in my opinion. I used a small cam placement before the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and nuts and cams higher up. The gear is small and tricky on this climb, but you can get a lot in if you work at it. The first part is classic Lover's Leap balancy dike mantling. The flake for the top 30 feet is very positive and a fantastic finish to this climb. Need two ropes to rap unless you have a 70 meter rope. Jun 16, 2012

[Hide Comment] Not the best .7 at the Leap as the Supertopo claims, but a nice mixed line nonetheless.

I do not think this would be a good route for a 5.7/5.8 leader due to the committing run-outs. Aug 6, 2012

[Hide Comment] Needs a confident approach and tricky to get good gear in. UK grade probably HVS 4c - harder than I would expect for "5.7". Sep 14, 2012

[Hide Comment] I actually loved this route and the adrenaline rush from finishing it help it earn its stars. sustained and runout for sure - good adrenaline rush. I was SO grateful I had a set of offset nuts for this. May 29, 2013

[Hide Comment] Felt like there was one tough move (thin hands and feet) right at the first bolt. Everything else felt 5.7. Placed two nuts before the first bolt, then a few cams above the last bolt. Jul 23, 2013

[Hide Comment] Gotta agree with some of the other posters. You should be a confident 5.7 (or maybe even 5.8) leader. The start before the slab requires proficiency at placing gear and the slab section is more sporty than runout. Though I sure was happy to grab that flake after the slab. A great single pitch climb and a worthwhile tick. Jan 28, 2015

[Hide Comment] Technically it is an easy climb with a lot of variations to the left or to the right. Although it would be a kind of "bold" climb for inexperienced 5.7 leader. Be sure you are confident at the grade.

70m rope is barely enough to rappel down. Watch your rope ends! Some 70m ropes are shorter, some are longer.

To TR the fun climb to the left elongate the anchor with four or so double shoulder slings and bring a couple mid to hand size cams to set a directional. Jun 29, 2015

[Hide Comment] Agree with AndrewB. Move at the first bolt felt like 5.8 or harder. I don't see how the climb just to the left of this could be rated harder. Aug 3, 2015

[Hide Comment] After rappelling with two 60m ropes joined by a knot, do not pull your rope directly down to the start of the route. If you do this, the rope might get stuck in the cracks under the anchor (this happened to me and I had to re-climb the route to unstuck it). It is better to move 15 - 20 feet to left and pull the rope down from there. Oct 14, 2016

[Hide Comment] Very heads up, not for the fledgling 5.7 leader at all. The book says gear .5 to 1.5 but I thought it was more like 0.3 to 1, with some micro nuts thrown in for good measure. Way more committing (but because of that, also more fun) than I expected. My rope is about 64 meters since I cut it and I barely made it to the ground. Jun 3, 2018

[Hide Comment] Feels more like 5.8 to 5.9 because of run outs nd some thin slab moves protected by periodic bolts. Need a 70m to make it down. We climbed with a 60m and had a pain in the ass rappel off to climbers right where there is an anchor in a tree. Super annoying getting there but it worked. Sep 21, 2018

[Hide Comment] This was the most sustained 5.7 I've been on. I'm glad to see I wasn't the only one! Super fun but felt like it didn't let up and I was in the "oh it's only 5.7 mind set." picked it because I thought it would be good for my GF to follow, not the case. Great climb though!!! Jan 15, 2019

[Hide Comment] We really enjoyed the consistent 5.7 nature of this climb, but it was a long way between some of the bolts. Jul 2, 2019

[Hide Comment] The neighboring climbs to climber's right seemed much more interesting and varied. Moves are the same most of the climb (slab moves off thin dikes) and marginal-to-poor gear placement options (cracks are shallow and flaring until you get near the top) making most of the climb very runout and most of your placements more for psychological comfort than actual protection. Jun 14, 2020

[Hide Comment] Agree with the comments that this route is quite heads-up for a 5.7 (small, sometimes tricky gear and thin face climbing). However, I did not find it to be runout - I placed 11 pieces in addition to the bolts, including some placements between the bolts. Bring plenty of small gear (largest I placed was a #1 C4), offsets in particular worked well given some of the flaring placements. Jul 17, 2020

[Hide Comment] Finished up the day last weekend with this route and it was the highlight of my day! I'm a very green trad climber with only a few routes under my belt and this was a fantastic "keep a cool head and you'll be fine" test piece! I didn't find any of the actual moves technically difficult - the real challenge was figuring out what tiny piece of gear fits in what tiny shallow crack for the first like 80 feet haha - good for practice picking gear! The few bolts that were on the route were just in the right spots, easy to clip, and looked fresh/recently replaced. Would recommend to anyone who is comfortable on slab. Also - the description of the route is "mostly bolted" - pretty sure I clipped just 4 bolts on a 115 foot route, so bring all your smallest trad gear if you don't like 30 foot runouts haha. Jun 1, 2021

[Hide Comment] A great route! Due to tricky trad gear placements, this isn't for new leaders though. Before the first bolt I got a small nut (finger nail sized) in, then a small cam. I also got a 0.5 BD and offset nut in between bolts 1 and 3. I approached the bottom half as a series of 5'-10' tall puzzles between pieces of pro. After that the upper, consistent crack eats passive and active small gear ( Oct 16, 2023

[Hide Comment] Fun route, crux is definitely the move after the first bolt. The hands and feet just disappear and it feels very committing. Make sure you tie off the belayers end of the rope too, our 70m rope left me ~4 feet off the ground coming down. Fortunately it was very easy to untie and down climb from there. Jun 12, 2024

[Hide Comment] Love this route Sep 9, 2024