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Routes in Hogwild

2 pin crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Accessory Dogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chorizo Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
HMR-1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
HMR-2 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
HMR-3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
HMR-6 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
HMR-7 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ham and Cheese S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hogwild T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It's Better with Bacon T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Just Acquaintances T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mixologist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Gaynor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prosciutto T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab Hog Millionaire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Swine Flu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
This Ain't Kosher T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Triplet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown trad T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Sport, 330 ft, 3 pitches
FA: [[Petch]]106141623
Page Views: 5,005 total, 39/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Jun 11, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route climbs a bolted pillar, 80' right of Better with Bacon. Climb up dikes with the occasional friction move past bolts to a two bolt anchor.

This is a newer route and has not seen a lot of traffic, and is somewhat grungy. The quality might get a little better as it cleans up.

(There is a second pitch that has some bolts and gear placements. This pitch does not get done often, and I don't know the anchor situation. if you do, please comment.)

Location

200 feet right of Better with bacon is a bolted pillar.

Protection

1st pitch, fully bolted w/ two bolt anchor w/chains. full 30m so watch the ends of your rope when lowering or rapping. Possibly a good early lead for a 5.6 leader, but there is one section where the bolts are 15' apart, but it is on easy climbing.

Photos

- Poindexter -
  5.7 PG13
- Poindexter -  
  5.7 PG13
Excellent route! 5.6+, 2.5/3 stars
Start: plush flat, belay ledge. No shade, but typically a light breeze.
The classic route has bolt-chains. Alternate P3 finish is tree belay.
Gear:
(1) 70M rope (rap stations are ~34M)
(12) draws, 1/2 of which have slings
(1) 0.5 camalot
(3) medium to large nuts

P1: (7) bolts
P2: place 0.5 cam off of belay, then mix of bolts and pitons
P3 (classic): go left, place medium nut in crack before following bolts. Can place 0.5 cam above roof, before making the moves, then follow bolts to belay. Rap from here or walk off.
P3 (alternate: go right, follow the bolts and pitons. Always angle up and right with the belay tree in sight. The bolts and pitons are NOT in a straight line so use the longer draws to compensate. Walk off or go to the classic P3 anchors (NOTE: they are below an upper tree. 4th class or short rap from tree to anchors). Jul 13, 2017
grabski
N California
  5.7
grabski   N California
  5.7
Felt more like 5.7. Still a great, easy climb, but a new 5.6 leader may feel uncomfortable. You can lead the whole thing without gear as long as you keep an eye out for pitons. Bring one 0.5-1" cam to protect the crack at the start of pitch 2 if you don't want a short run-out above the anchor. Oct 11, 2016
Kathy K.
SLT CA
Kathy K.   SLT CA
Fun climb!! Pitch 3: go left and up onto the right facing corner after 2 bolts. Traversing right, there is a bolt and some pitons, but those don't lead to the chains. Sep 16, 2016
Bailey Smith
  5.7
Bailey Smith  
  5.7
Would call this sport, and would call this a great time! Sep 7, 2016
Boriss
Sacramento
 
Boriss   Sacramento
 
Climbed this today, very cool route.

P1: Follow up the obvious pillar, all bolted and fairly easy. There are a few spots that are a little run out, but not a big deal since the climbing is fairly easy. Bolted anchor with chains.

P2: This was the easiest pitch for me. You climb small edges, dikes, and a few short cracks. A couple of pitons for protection and one bolt. Plus there are a few areas where you can place some solid gear. This pitch ends at a small bush with another bolted anchor with chains.

P3: The last pitch is great! Might be intimidating to look at but it is protected very well and has some amazing climbing. Climb over the corner on the left and clip two bolts before the roof (great jugs above the lip), then continue up the low angle slab with occasional dikes past several more bolts. A few of the bolts are a bit of a ways from each other, but manageable. You finish off at a bolted anchor with chains.

Note: The variation to pitch 3 goes to the right from the 2nd belay station. Seemed really cool but we did not climb that way. Also, rappelling the route could be possible, again we walked off so not much info on that.

Then you walk off. This is a great route! So fun. Jul 4, 2016
CR1
CR1  
You cannot TR this route with a 60M rope - definitely recommend using a 70M. Someone was lowered off the end of a 60M rope when TR-ing this route. May 12, 2016
OKClimber
Folsom
 
OKClimber   Folsom
 
What a fun route! Solid rock, fun moves, well protected...I couldnt get the smile off my face after doing this route! May 10, 2015
liveit P
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
liveit P   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
Really enjoyed this climb. The climb starts right where the approach trail levels off after a steep section.
There is NO ROOF after the 1st bolt, that is triplet I believe.
This is what I remember of the climb, so not exact:
P1 6 bolts, climbs fun dikes to a 2 bolt anchor with chains
P2 3ish pitons (one I almost didn't see) and at least one bolt, 2 bolt anchor with chains above the bush
P3 Look up and left to spot the first bolt, This pitch climbs to the left of the arete/dihedral. It goes over the roof with at least 5 bolts, never saw the piton.

There is a variation to the 3rd pitch, which goes up and right from the anchor, rated about 5.8. Takes 9 draws on a mixture of pitons a bolts, Hard to see some of the pitons, but after you step over the roof the route goes up and right. I belayed off the tree at the top, then rapped from the top of the normal route.

Rappelled the whole route with a 70M rope, 60M would be too short. Oct 21, 2013
Malieka's description was a big help. I think I only found 6 bolts on p1 - might have missed one but don't see how as all are new and shiny. p2 starts with a piton that was surprising since the crack takes good gear - I backed up the piton just because I could. I found another painted white piton higher up right when I was thinking it would be nice to get some gear in. I didn't see a 3rd piton on p2 and don't remember how many bolts I clipped. I did use a #1 camalot somewhere along the way in a horizontal. p3 is definitely the most fun. Watch out for a new route/project that goes up and right from the p2 anchor - three bolts with a leaver biner on the last one. I missed a piton on p3 out near the far right edge between the last two bolts. That was the only section that felt a little runout to me. I think there were 5 bolts on p3. My follower spotted the "missed" piton on her way up. We didn't see any other pitons. Good slabby moves. Grade seems right on. Jul 1, 2013
Malieka
Reno, NV
 
Malieka   Reno, NV
 
Caughtinside P1 description is right on (FWIW, the hand drawn topo for Chorizo Corner notes the distance from BwB as 200ft). P2 goes straight up the face for about 30m to a 2 bolt anchor with chains - 3 pitons, 1 bolt, a few opportunities for smaller gear (< BD .5). P3 move left and up onto the face of a right facing dihedral - follow bolt line over small roof - continue following bolts and pitons (didn't notice any gear opportunities) to a 3rd of chains, about 35m. Seems possible to rap the route with 70m rope, but we walked off. Super fun!! Oct 29, 2012
Only thing that doesn't match up is the distance right of BwB. Sep 4, 2012
Hey boys, check out the beta pic with Chorizo Corner. I think maybe we are calling a route Ham and Cheese that is actually right of Ham and Cheese. I climbed all the bolted routes from Better with Bacon to the pillar(ham and cheese) shown in the picture this weekend. There were 3, all similar and about 5.5 5.6. The furthest right line seemed more like the description of Ham and Cheese above. Anyone have some insight? Sep 4, 2012
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
  5.6
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
  5.6
7 bolts total [on pitch 1]. The first bolt is high but easy to climb to, in addition to the 15' space the original author mentions. Jun 11, 2012