Avg: 2.7 from 154 votes
|Type:||Trad, 425 ft (129 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Petch Piertolungo, Brent Kuemerle & Chris McNamara - 2003|
|Page Views:||10,809 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||Orphaned User on May 29, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
P1: start up a thin right trending crack. when it peters out, step right into another very thin right trending crack. The cracks are very thin, and take small nuts, but the moves are slab moves.
P2: Straight up a 5.6 slab past 3 protection bolts.
P3: Up a 12' crack to a bolted 5.6 slab. There is a 5.8 roof that must be surmounted at the end of the pitch, very fun!