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Routes in Hogwild

2 pin crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Accessory Dogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chorizo Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
HMR-1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
HMR-2 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
HMR-3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
HMR-6 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
HMR-7 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ham and Cheese S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hogwild T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It's Better with Bacon T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Just Acquaintances T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mixologist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Gaynor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prosciutto T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab Hog Millionaire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Swine Flu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
This Ain't Kosher T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Triplet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown trad T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 425 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,099 total, 48/month
Shared By: caughtinside on May 29, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

It's Better with Bacon is a good route on a nice slab on Hogwild. The star rating is for the first 3 pitches.

P1: start up a thin right trending crack. when it peters out, step right into another very thin right trending crack. The cracks are very thin, and take small nuts, but the moves are slab moves.

P2: Straight up a 5.6 slab past 3 protection bolts.

P3: Up a 12' crack to a bolted 5.6 slab. There is a 5.8 roof that must be surmounted at the end of the pitch, very fun!

Location

Walk 100 yards past the beginning of the Hogwild until you see the two thin cracks of the first pitch that both trend up and right at a 45 degree angle, on a clean slab broken by good belay ledges.

Protection

bolts, gear to 1", small nuts and micronuts. All anchors bolted. You can rap the route with one 60m rope
Fun route, but by no means sustained. A couple of important considerations. This route is much easier than the east wall routes so it can get crowded for this reason climb quickly and do this in 2 pitches with a final 50 ft scramble. To do that link "pitches" 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 then Top out! Its lame to and rude to parties behind you trying to rap this when you can walk off to the campground in minutes.

The administrator for this route forgot to mention the last crack pitch as well as the final scramble to the top.... Jul 13, 2017
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, California
  5.8 PG13
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, California
  5.8 PG13
Great place for slab practice. Although the first pitch is 5.6, it's probably the most dicey pitch. I think i put in two peenuts and two small cams on the whole pitch. Did not have any brass/micro nuts. Bring these if you want to have it reasonably protected. Aug 3, 2015
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.8
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.8
All the slab pitches are high quality. Jan 27, 2015
Kathy K.
SLT CA
  5.7 PG13
Kathy K.   SLT CA
  5.7 PG13
A pleasant route. There are some shiny new bolts, including a anchor, toward the west side of IBWB 3rd pitch. We didn't notice them until our descent. Was hoping for info here on a new route, but guess it's the variation mentioned above. Sep 12, 2014
I heard from Forrest this past weekend that there are now some variations to the route. Does anyone have details? Jun 29, 2014
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
  5.8-
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
  5.8-
Easy slab to run up. Pitch 4 has one easy 5.8 move. Fun friction climbing. Jun 11, 2013
I sincerely regretted topping this out. There are no rap rings at the very top, just a tree, so bring bail gear or carry shoes up and hike down. May 29, 2013
powderfinger
san mateo
powderfinger   san mateo
Great climb to take someone up if they are new to multi-pitch climbing. With all the bolted anchors so close together you can bail at anytime and rap with one 60m. IMO 1st, the 4th(?) bolted reachy pitch, and the top-out pitch with the tooth thing are the best pitches. Top it out. Nov 5, 2012
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8
I'd say P1 is the crux to lead as protection is poor until you reach the thin left-slanting crack (UK grade HVS 4b/c). The start of P4 has harder moves (long reaches; UK VS 5a) but very close to bolts. It seems very contrived to go direct round the overlap on P3 as there are big holds just to the right. With double ropes it's easy to make 2 abseils back dowm. Sep 14, 2012
Floyd Hayes
  5.8 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8 PG13
Brilliantly contrived! I like slab so I really liked this climb, even more than Bear's Reach and Surrealistic Pillar, but less than Corrugation Corner, and did it twice within a few days. The first bolt on pitch 2 is a bit off the deck, easiest to reach by traversing in from the left. The crux 5.8 overhang was fun, even if a bit contrived. Pitch 5 wasn't much fun, appeared to have a few options (I traversed right to the "hanging tooth" and then back left), and my rope wound up running over a disconcertingly jagged 4' edge just left of the "hanging tooth." When rappelling from the 4th anchor, pitch 4 is about 95' (best to tie a knot at the ends of a 60 m rope) and pitch 3 is a few feet longer than 100' (60 m rope ends dangle several feet above the big ledge). Jun 21, 2010
Tim Camuti
Placerville, CA
 
Tim Camuti   Placerville, CA
 
Great climb with many interesting roofs in the final pitches. Guidebook (Supertopo) lists 5 pitches to the top, we linked 2-3 and 4-5 for a fantastic climb, a lot of fun with a variety of moves and rock. Final pitch was dirty, short 5th class, then 4th, belayed off the Juniper on the summit.
I agree with Lars Johnson that pitch 4 is a lot of fun. If you are climbing on Hogwild after this, then rappel is OK. Otherwise, save the time and just climb out and walk down to the campground or the Leap itself. Aug 16, 2009
phatline
Burlingame, CA
phatline   Burlingame, CA
The 5.8 roof feels contrived; in fact, when leading I didn't see the bolt and chose the easier variation 5' to the right (with solid pro, even!) that avoids the 5.8 altogether. After bringing up my second I lowered down so I could do the roof--it was fun but not remarkably so.

I am not as sour about the last pitch as most seem to be--it is a little dirty, but probably only because no one does it. I like P1 best. Feb 10, 2009
GMBurns
 
GMBurns  
 
Kind of a boring route with false-advertising in the SuperTopo and a one-move wonder to push the grade. The thin-crack first pitch is fun to look at, but not that stiff. Bring micro nuts if you're not comfortable with run-outs. The third pitch offers the single 5.8 move, a high-step and smear over a well-protected roof. This would be a good practice climb for folks without slab experience. Jul 21, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Pitches 1 and 2 combine at 185'. Pitches 3 and 4 combine at 198'. From there, a short final pitch (~50') leads to the top and a straightforward walk off. Jun 22, 2008
lars johnson
San Francisco, CA
 
lars johnson   San Francisco, CA
 
The post forgot to mention the $$ pitch, #4. Mantels to long reaches if you are under 5'9" [5.8] and then a series of small roofs to a bolted belay on the left. Pitch 5 is usually skipped as it is dirty and loose. Pitch 3 rappel is 105' not quite reaching the bolts with a 60m rope. No worries as it is a huge ledge.

Very fun route and nicely protected. Leave the big pro at the car. Jun 6, 2007