Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Keith Guillory
Page Views: 2,477 total · 19/month
Shared By: Matt Richardson on Jun 25, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

41 Opinions

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Start just right of Iranian Arms Deal on a thin face. The first crux is just making the first clip off of the thin, greasy holds. Once on the ledge above the first bolt, man up and clip the fixed pin before following the line of ferns across multiple slopey ledges. Finish by manteling onto the sloping topout.


Route is located immediately to the right of Iranian Arms Deal toward the center of this area.


4 bolts plus anchors


Mike Hulse
Mike Hulse  
Difficult start up to the ledge and difficult finish up to the chains. Many people get off this climb annoyed because of the relative difficulty of this climb compared to 5.9s everywhere else on the Green Belt. I think it might be closer to a 5.10a just because it's not intuitive. Nov 17, 2010
Chance Copeland  
Mike's comments are accurate. There is always a lot of discussion about this climb's grade. I don't want to waste too much energy talking about it since I'm not very fond of the climb, but it certainly was "surprisingly difficult" to me. Although I flashed it (on top rope) successfully, the top of the climb made me upset. Sep 29, 2011
Ryan Levihn-Coon
Austin, Texas
Ryan Levihn-Coon   Austin, Texas
Yeah, the chains of set back on the slab, often-chossy top-out. Some feel safer clipping the chains of 'Ventre and topping-out there, clipping the chains on route, and then down-climbing and unclipping from the chains out right. It can be a throw to the slabby ledge you might not be able to see. Take note of the crazy grooves ropes have dug through the years where the rope comes over the top-out from the chains above it. Feb 20, 2014
Emily Ammon
5.10a/b PG13
Emily Ammon  
5.10a/b PG13
Also agree with the above comments. It was one of my earlier outdoor climbs that other shorties with more experience found troubling too (5'0" & 5'4"). And screw that top out - definitely gave me the heebie-jeebies. May 1, 2017
Gilroy   Boulderado
Backstory: This was the first bolted 5.9 on the whole Greenbelt and I always wondered if it wasn't under-graded when I did it. Originally done in 1984, it's no wonder the holds are polished as altar marble. If you onsight this rig in current conditions you have my congratulations for being so focused. And we topped out everything back then hence the heinous top-out mantle. The loss of a large chert foothold made the first clip a good deal less secure. Can't blame me for that. :) FA had a pin by the chert foothold and a bolt at the top. Used a sling draped on the horn midway. and swam through a sea of ferns (also long gone.) Jun 4, 2018