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Routes in Gus Fruh aka Fern Bar Area

Betwixt TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Birdland S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Blind Date S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chicken Supreme S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Egg Salad Sandwich TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fern Bar S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gros Ventre S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heir Apparent S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iranian Arms Deal S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock Retard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Running Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thumb Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Trash Can Man S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wyoming Women T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,843 total · 15/month
Shared By: Matt Richardson on Jun 25, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description [Suggest Change]

An outstanding route for the area that involves some thin face climbing. Start right of Wyoming Women (a naturally protected crack climb which cleaves the Gus Fruh wall) under a small roof with a gap in it from the left side. Layback onto an incut directly beneath the left portion of the roof and clip the first bolt. This next move makes this route outstanding! Laying off that incut, highstep with the left onto the outer portion of the roof and rock up into a stance just above the roof. Follow the climb straight up through a wonderfully thin face.

This route was originally a top rope using the anchors from Wyoming Women.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route can be located as one travels right down toward the Kingdom of Ging. The route is located immediately right of a large crack (Wyoming Women, 5.8) and starts under a small roof.

Protection [Suggest Change]

3 to 4 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

The crux over the bulge is some hard 5.9, but it's all easy sailing past that. Jul 12, 2011
Chance Copeland  
  5.9
A one-move wonder to be sure, but it is a fun move. Sep 29, 2011
DavidC  
To help find this one, there is a 2.0 mile green trail marker right in front of the big crack. This starts about 3 feet to the right of that Oct 5, 2012
Emily Ammon
  5.9+
Emily Ammon  
  5.9+
Agreed on the crux! But once I made the move, came back a few weeks later and crushed it, felt so natural. It's all about building that neuromuscular connection for a slightly new or unusual movement.

Also felt that going left of the bolt line on the way up felt kind of challenging! Some go right for an easier ascent on the ledge. May 1, 2017

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