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Routes in Gus Fruh aka Fern Bar Area

Betwixt TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Birdland S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Blind Date S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chicken Supreme S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Egg Salad Sandwich TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fern Bar S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gros Ventre S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heir Apparent S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iranian Arms Deal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Retard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thumb Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Trash Can Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wyoming Women T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Keith Guillory and David Renberg
Page Views: 1,787 total, 16/month
Shared By: Matt Richardson on Jun 25, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

This route is identifiable by a ledge containing (what else) ferns about 15' up. There are two ways to start this route: 1) approach it from directly under the ledge (5.10-ish) or 2) maintaining consistency with the rest of the route, traverse in from the right (near the start of Fern Bar). Either way, you will get some distance before being able to clip the first bolt! For the rest of the route, follow the bolt line through a series of jugs to a sloping top out that, for the 5.8 climber, will have you checking your drawer's!

Location

The route is located immediately to the left of Fern Bar toward the middle of the wall.

Protection

3 to 4 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

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Gilroy
Boulderado
Gilroy   Boulderado
Original start is on Fern Bar. Clip the fist bolt and traverse left to the first bolt on Iranian Arms Deal. More in keeping with the difficulties of the rest of Iranian Arms. The direct start was added later and is hard .10. Other options for the start exist. Apr 22, 2012
Mike Hulse
  5.10c/d
Mike Hulse  
  5.10c/d
Rated a 5.10d in the book just because of the first 15 feet. There is a stout throw to the ledge off of some thin side pulls. After you reach the top you'll have to mantel up and over to get to the chains, this move seems a little sketchy on lead. Nov 17, 2010