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Routes in Gus Fruh aka Fern Bar Area

Betwixt TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Birdland S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Blind Date S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chicken Supreme S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Egg Salad Sandwich TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fern Bar S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gros Ventre S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heir Apparent S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iranian Arms Deal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Retard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thumb Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Trash Can Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wyoming Women T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 913 total, 12/month
Shared By: Grear Wilson on Aug 19, 2011 with updates
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Awesome route. Solid 5.10 climbing to the second bolt. Runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Potential groundfall, though the climbing eases drastically. After you are about 20ft past the 2nd bolt, you can either clip a piton (unnecessary), or clip the first set of anchors. If you feel like you want to climb some more, clip the left anchor and climb up and left past one more bolt and mantle onto a big block and rap off some rusty chains. DEFINITELY worth doing to second half.

Location

This route is 2nd from the right, to the right is "Blind Date" Kingdom of Ging.

Protection

3 bolts, 1 pin, sport anchors for the first set, chain links for the second.

Photos

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Jake Westfall
Austin, TX
 
Jake Westfall   Austin, TX
 
A 35 meter rope is almost-but-not-quite long enough to link these two pitches. Jul 7, 2017
Jake Westfall
Austin, TX
 
Jake Westfall   Austin, TX
 
It's actually not even the rightmost route on this particular wall. That honor belongs to Blind Date (10c), one to the right of this. May 1, 2017
Lee Payne
Dirtbag
Lee Payne   Dirtbag
Location should be updated. The routes of Myth Wall are between this and Kingdom of Ging cave now. Apr 21, 2017
WMcD  
Be prepared to pull stout 5.9 moves with your feet above the second bolt. I recommend not falling on this one, but with a competent belayer, it would be pretty hard to hit to ground. Good clean fun. Apr 23, 2014