Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,809 total · 44/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 22, 2008
Admins: Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


94 Opinions

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Access Issue: PRIVATELY OWNED PROPERTY Details

Description

A deservedly popular and possibly slightly sandbagged route. Steep sustained climbing on big holds.

Location

From the first bunch of climbs ascend to the second tier (aka Impact Zone) and this is the first route you see right in front of you ascending an orange streaked face with lots of chalk on it.

Protection

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Jesse Coburn
Manchester, NH
 
Jesse Coburn   Manchester, NH
 
sand bagged.. agreed. pumpy with a good rest before the chains but i'd agree with a 10a rating Jul 24, 2008
FA by Angie McGuinness in the early 90's Sep 7, 2011
Awesome route! Fun and pumpy with a "big" move super close to the top. The view is breathtaking at the top... tell your belayer to wait before lowering and take a look around! Definitely a must do. May 8, 2013
TyrelJ
Alexandria, VA
TyrelJ   Alexandria, VA
Great route, rc.com says 7 bolts but there are actually 9 bolts to the chains, glad we counted before going up or I would have been a few draws short and the top section is definitely harder. Aug 25, 2014
Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
I think 5.9+ is fair. That rest right before the crux lets you shake out the pump from the first section. But without it I could agree with a 10a rating. Mar 15, 2015
Chip Loomis
  5.10-
Chip Loomis  
  5.10-
I have never cleaned with just clipping into the chains before this climb. Afterwards I did walk around up top and found the chains. To my surprised they were in a dangerous position. I don't know if pulling of the rope from below flung the chains wrong or if cleaning a top rope set up caused the chains to get in a potentially dangerous situation. The triangular shunts that anchor in the chains have a little gap and if the chains are in that gap instead of their proper position, a strong top rope fall could definitely pull the chains through one of them. the other did not seem to have as much of a gap but still... (I di not have my camera on me to get a pic of what I am talking about) Aug 18, 2017
Lindsay
 
Lindsay  
 
Really fun climb! I thought that 5.9+ was also fair. I will say that some of the rock sounded pretty hollow and not super solid midway up the route. Definitely worth doing, but half way up I really wished my belayer had a helmet. If you don't have a helmet, you'll probably be fine, but just wanted to put that out there. Sep 7, 2017
Stuart Jones
  5.10a
Stuart Jones  
  5.10a
Love this route. Its definitely harder than 5.9 even compared to the nearby New River Gorge and 5.9+ is a somewhat contrived grade in the first place. Its quite long, pretty pumpy, and the hardest moves are clipping the anchors. Yeah the holds are pretty good but they require fairly athletic moves to get between them. Anyone who can redpoint this route should be able to tackle Aqualung (5.10a) on the other side of the area. In my mind there's no reason to give a local classic like this a nitpicky grade like 5.9+ but those are just my thoughts Feb 11, 2019