All Locations > W Virginia > Eastern WV > Franklin Gorge > Main Wall > Impact Zone

Black Magic

Name: Black Magic
Rating: 3.0

5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in Impact Zone

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anchors Away S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Aqualung S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Barnacle Bill S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Barnacled Anchor T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Belly of the Whale S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bends, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Bird of Prey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Blood, Sweat and Chalk S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Castaways S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Davey Jones' Locker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Decompression Sickness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Early Retirement T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Eddie's Arête S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Edge-U-Cate S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	First Aid S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Handjob S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Hidden Treasure S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Jump Start S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Keelhauled S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Last Laugh, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Mostly Harmless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Neptune (?) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	No Weld S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	One for One S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Persephone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Rock Your World S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Shipwrecked S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Skid Marks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Super Amazing Sea Monkeys S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Trident S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Van Idle Route 1 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Van Idle Route 2 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Walk the Plank S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Wintermute S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Sport, 30 ft (9 m)
GPS:	38.66516, -79.32026
FA:	Mike Farnsworth
Page Views:	2,159 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Mike Farnsworth on Dec 13, 2012
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Ray Weber Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: PRIVATELY OWNED PROPERTY Details

This cliff line is on private property. If there are "NO TRESPASSING" signs up, and you choose to climb there, that's a personal choice. Attempts have been made to contact the landowner by the local climbing organization, but thus far, there has been no progress.

Description

NEW line as of 12/13/12.

This one will require some trickery!

Climb a very easy vertical face past one bolt (watch for a loose rock or two at the start), then punch it out the 10' dead horizontal roof. The route is essentially a bolted boulder problem. A single tight hands jam seemed mandatory, but this isn't the crack posted on rockclimbing(dot)com. I haven't been able to find that line. I'm not sure about the grade, but 12d seems fair. Climb it! I doubt you'll be disappointed!

Location

The general location is: right of Blood, Sweat, and Chalk, left of Castaways. The climb begins uphill and left from two routes of similar character (vertical with a small roof/overlap at midheight), one of which begins on a pedestal. Scramble up a small hill from these routes to reach the base under a large roof. There are two routes here. Black Magic is the left route that climbs straight out the center of the roof using a seam and 1' right facing corner.