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Areas in Franklin Gorge

Main Wall 3 / 56 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 58
Riverbend 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Elevation: 1,636 ft
GPS: 38.665, -79.325 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 55,474 total · 1,320/month
Shared By: AndyJohnson on Apr 9, 2015
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
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Access Issue: PRIVATELY OWNED PROPERTY Details

Description

***Access here is uncertain.  Attempts have been made to access the land owners with no success.  If you see no trespassing signs, please don't remove them, and if you choose to climb here with those signs up, do so knowing that you could be permanently jeopardizing access.  Climb at your own risk.  Use good judgement.***

Getting There

There is at least one published guidebook to the area with the location listed there.  The specific directions aren't published here because of the tenuous access issue.

72 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Franklin Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 63
First Aid
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Belly of the Whale
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 41
Jump Start
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 73
Castaways
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 64
Aloha
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
Shipwrecked
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 91
Blood, Sweat and Chalk
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 26
Anchors Away
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 31
Aqualung
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Potential Energy
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
Bircham's Beach
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 25
Decompression Sickness
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 47
Barnacle Bill
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
Dynosaurus
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 9
Davey Jones' Locker
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
First Aid Main Wall > Impact Zone
 63
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Belly of the Whale Main Wall > Impact Zone
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Jump Start Main Wall > Impact Zone
 41
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Castaways Main Wall > Impact Zone
 73
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Aloha Main Wall > Contact Zone
 64
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Shipwrecked Main Wall > Impact Zone
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Blood, Sweat and Chalk Main Wall > Impact Zone
 91
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Anchors Away Main Wall > Impact Zone
 26
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Aqualung Main Wall > Impact Zone
 31
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Potential Energy Main Wall > Contact Zone
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Bircham's Beach Main Wall > Contact Zone
 30
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Decompression Sickness Main Wall > Impact Zone
 25
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Barnacle Bill Main Wall > Impact Zone
 47
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dynosaurus Main Wall > Contact Zone
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Davey Jones' Locker Main Wall > Impact Zone
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
More Classic Climbs in Franklin Gorge »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Wonderful area, thanks so much for taking the effort to put up the climbs. Being an "out-of-towner", I just want to mention that the climbing areas are just east of Franklin before getting into town. If you are used to pumpy and steep climbs then you will be in heaven. Leaving the parking area at the Main Wall, you will find an uphill trail that goes to the Parking Lot Area crag, and after following the trail to the right you will first come to the Contact Zone, then eventually the Impact Zone area. So many more climbs than listed here in Mountain Project Aug 18, 2017
selma nunes
Falls Church VA
selma nunes   Falls Church VA
does anyone know if the upper river section is closed ? I do not think that is on there property ? but i could be wrong ? May 14, 2018
Nick Haha
Baltimore, md
Nick Haha   Baltimore, md
Has anyone heard if this area is still closed to climbers or are we allowed to climb now? Jul 16, 2018
Ronin Gray
Smoke Hole Canyon
Ronin Gray   Smoke Hole Canyon
Why are you still climbing at a closed crag, when there are over 225 routes on Public Land just 15 minutes north on Route 220, at Reed's Creek and in Smoke Hole Canyon?

Guides are available for Reed's and the Long Branch/Guide Wall area through rakkup.com, and all profits go to support trail maintenance and anchor replacement. Jul 31, 2018

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