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Routes in Impact Zone

Anchors Away S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Aqualung S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barnacle Bill S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Belly of the Whale S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bends, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bird of Prey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Blood, Sweat and Chalk S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Castaways S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Davey Jones' Locker S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Decompression Sickness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Early Retirement T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Eddie’'s Arête S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge-U-Cate S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
First Aid S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hidden Treasure S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jump Start S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keelhauled S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Laugh, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mostly Harmless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Neptune (?) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
One for One S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rock Your World S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Shipwrecked S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skid Marks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Super Amazing Sea Monkeys S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trident S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Van Idle Route 1 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Van Idle Route 2 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk the Plank S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wintermute S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,848 total, 16/month
Shared By: Pete Hickman on Jun 18, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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PRIVATELY OWNED PROPERTY Details

Description

Crux is moving past the second bolt, which is at waist hight during the crux. The rest of the climb is easy. First bolt is pretty high off of the ground. There is much chalk slightly to the left of the line which can be misleading. Climb starts directly below the first bolt.

Location

Impact zone left, through the tunnel and across the ledge to far side, on right side of alcove.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors

Photos

Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
  5.8+
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
  5.8+
Tightened 2 hangers on Belly and 1 on Sea Monkeys this past Saturday. Happy to do it. Apr 28, 2014
Ronin Gray
Smoke Hole Canyon
  5.8
Ronin Gray   Smoke Hole Canyon
  5.8
Sorry, Jake... the smiley didn't translate. Thanks for the upkeep! Oct 17, 2013
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
  5.8+
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
  5.8+
I'll bring a wrench and tighten it the next time I'm there. I think the second one on Sea Monkeys is loose as well. I'm aware that Franklin doesn't have a service department. I just didn't have a wrench when I was there, and thought someone may see the comment and do a good deed if they were in the area. I'll try that beta the next time I'm there. Sep 12, 2013
Ronin Gray
Smoke Hole Canyon
  5.8
Ronin Gray   Smoke Hole Canyon
  5.8
Never did the "flop onto the ledge" for the FA; we did a nice rock-on with sidepulls to the right and a few nubbins to a standing stance, right up out of the throat of the dihedral.

Feel free to tighten that spinner... Franklin doesn't have a service department. Sep 12, 2013
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
  5.8+
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
  5.8+
The move to gain the ledge on top of the arete is interesting for an .8 The flop onto the ledge breaks up the flow of what would be a decent short route with a distinct crux. Right anchor bolt is a spinner. Apr 15, 2012
Ronin Gray
Smoke Hole Canyon
  5.8
Ronin Gray   Smoke Hole Canyon
  5.8
Route now has 5 bolts, all new, with a lower first bolt added by FA. PLEASE stop TRing this line through the anchors... carabiners cost one HELL of a lot less than ring anchors. Dec 2, 2009