Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,059 total · 15/month
Shared By: Pete Hickman on Jun 18, 2008
Admins: Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Access Issue: PRIVATELY OWNED PROPERTY Details

Description

Crux is moving past the second bolt, which is at waist hight during the crux. The rest of the climb is easy. First bolt is pretty high off of the ground. There is much chalk slightly to the left of the line which can be misleading. Climb starts directly below the first bolt.

Location

Impact zone left, through the tunnel and across the ledge to far side, on right side of alcove.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors

Photos

Ronin Gray
Smoke Hole Canyon
  5.8
Ronin Gray   Smoke Hole Canyon
  5.8
Route now has 5 bolts, all new, with a lower first bolt added by FA. PLEASE stop TRing this line through the anchors... carabiners cost one HELL of a lot less than ring anchors. Dec 2, 2009
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
  5.8+
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
  5.8+
The move to gain the ledge on top of the arete is interesting for an .8 The flop onto the ledge breaks up the flow of what would be a decent short route with a distinct crux. Right anchor bolt is a spinner. Apr 15, 2012
Ronin Gray
Smoke Hole Canyon
  5.8
Ronin Gray   Smoke Hole Canyon
  5.8
Never did the "flop onto the ledge" for the FA; we did a nice rock-on with sidepulls to the right and a few nubbins to a standing stance, right up out of the throat of the dihedral.

Feel free to tighten that spinner... Franklin doesn't have a service department. Sep 12, 2013
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
  5.8+
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
  5.8+
I'll bring a wrench and tighten it the next time I'm there. I think the second one on Sea Monkeys is loose as well. I'm aware that Franklin doesn't have a service department. I just didn't have a wrench when I was there, and thought someone may see the comment and do a good deed if they were in the area. I'll try that beta the next time I'm there. Sep 12, 2013
Ronin Gray
Smoke Hole Canyon
  5.8
Ronin Gray   Smoke Hole Canyon
  5.8
Sorry, Jake... the smiley didn't translate. Thanks for the upkeep! Oct 17, 2013
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
  5.8+
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
  5.8+
Tightened 2 hangers on Belly and 1 on Sea Monkeys this past Saturday. Happy to do it. Apr 28, 2014