Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: John Burcham
Page Views: 1,369 total · 13/month
Shared By: jarthur on Apr 12, 2010
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: PRIVATELY OWNED PROPERTY Details

Description

Starts out on some steep climbing which ends with a big move over the roof getting up and past the 4th bolt. Continue past a short slabby section to another roof 5 ft below the anchors. Go direct on some thin moves to gain the anchor, and don't bail out left, or right to get to the anchors because you'll miss the last crux! This route packs quite the punch for such a short route.

Location

Part of the section of the cliff called the Impact Zone. Located on a ledge system that can easily be accessed through a tunnel that I completely missed the first time around. Located two routes to the left of Belly of the Whale.

Protection

6 bolts and anchors.

Photos

second bolt is spinning a little bit, but an awesome climb none the less Sep 14, 2011
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
 
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
 
This thing is a super amazing chosspile until you get past the first bolt. Watch what you pull on and step on until you're clipped in. Great roof climbing on incut jugs underneath. Seriously fun. The 10.d part is going to the anchors above the last bolt. Tightened the spinner this last Saturday. One of my faves at Franklin. Aug 23, 2013
Gilbert M
  5.10d
Gilbert M  
  5.10d
A steep but fun 5.10. Save some juice and your problem-solving skills for the the business at the end. Oct 6, 2014