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Routes in Creekside

Corner Kick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dire straights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elfworks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moderna Zeiten T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nairobi S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pogemahone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sail Bait S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smucker's Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tenshun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Totally Clips S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Chris Barnes
Page Views: 1,602 total · 13/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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Description [Suggest Change]

This long route is a 3-star pump with great steep climbing on a patina covering face. It is only marred by a couple hard to clip bolts.

Start by scrambling up a short chimney to the left of the climb. It is the first climb on the exposed ledge on the left. The pumpy crux comes in the first 4 bolts through steep terrian. The crux is clipping the 4th bolt, since it was placed to the right of the best holds. The bolts above are well spaced, which will keep you on your toes.

You can lower with a 60M, but your belayer need to be on the upper ledge at the start of the climb. With a 70M you can lower to the ground.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is the fourth route from the right edge of the west side of Creekside.

Protection [Suggest Change]

8-10 bolts

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11a
The crux is most definitely clipping the 4th or 5th bolt. Sloping holds and the bolt is way too far right. Great route though - steep and juggy at the bottom, thin and technical at the top. Aug 31, 2008
The bolts on this have been replaced and one or two have been moved to better clipping spots. Mar 5, 2016

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