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Routes in Creekside
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Aggro Betty S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beeline T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Boulder Urbano S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Corner Kick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dire straights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Double Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Elfworks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Enter the Fold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Going down to Almo with a Lipstick in my purse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lesbian Knife Fight S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Moderne Zeiten T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nairobi S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pogemahone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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RKM T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sail Bait S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smucker's Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tenshun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Totally Clips S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Tony Calderone, Pam Ulmer 1996 |
| Page Views: | 968 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | zoso on Sep 20, 2018 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Climb the water runnel where the slab gets steeper. Here, you can place small gear to protect moves out right on good holds. Continue upwards on easy ground to the base of two crack systems. Here, you can pick one of two options:
1) The left parallel cracks in the dihedral climb at 5.6 and appear to be what is described in Bingham's book (although the picture shows the route taking the right crack)
2) The right splitter hand crack can be climbed at ~5.8
Build an anchor at the top of your crack system of choice, then walk off to the Beeline chains to rappel.
An alternative start includes clipping the first two bolts of Beeline to protect the initial runout before moving right across the water runnel.
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