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Routes in Creekside

Corner Kick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dire straights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Trouble T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elfworks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moderna Zeiten T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nairobi S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pogemahone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sail Bait S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smucker's Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tenshun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Totally Clips S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dave Bingham - 1990
Page Views: 423 total, 11/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 8, 2014
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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4 Opinions

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Description

An understated classic! Nairobi throws multiple cruxes at you - kicking off with pumpy, off-balance moves departing a block and committing to the face before traversing right and moving up past several tough bulges. The anchors, which are clipped from from a mail slot jug, are guarded by an improbable but brilliant crux move. Steep, slabby goodness and possibly high in the grade.

Protection

9 bolts. Having the draws in place (and possibly a few long draws) takes the sting out of this route. Otherwise clean airtime is definitely possible!

Photos

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Josh Janes    
 
I got on this on the last day of a trip back in 2014 and didn't have time to redpoint. I finally took care of unfinished business three years later. I ended up hanging long slings on four of the bolts, but I'm not sure I'd move any of them - and especially not the anchor! The final crux, once you figure it out, is memorable and totally makes the route.

I love this climb - it doesn't look like much but has some of the most brilliant face climbing I've done in the City. Deserves more stars.

NB: The grovel at the start can be avoided by climbing the initial pillar from the left and then downclimbing into the route. Also, Nairobi goes into the sun at 1 PM in the summer... it'd probably be a good idea to execute the last few moves before then! Aug 30, 2017
Just did this thing this weekend for the first time. I never thought the bolts were in difficult to clip spots, just difficult to stay on the wall with only one hand. The final move at first seems impossible, but with a little gym climbing creativity you can pull through the final slab move with relative ease. Amazing route, far more difficult that most 12a's at the city. May 31, 2016
haha. Josh - I did give it 3 stars in the old book, so I liked it too! Can't wait to go for a review, probably get my butt kicked! Mar 6, 2016
Josh Janes    
 
Forgive me for being the lone dissenter, but I really enjoyed all the climbing on this route. I do think some of the clips were tough, but losing the final cruxy slab would be a shame. Mar 5, 2016
err, yeah, truth be told, I meant to move the anchor down a bit to avoid the horrible final slab moves. I'd recommend bailing at the last bolt - it's still solid 12a to there! I don't recall moving too much out of the bolt line though... Mar 5, 2016
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
I'd been eyeing this one for ages and finally got on it. Expect hidden, cryptic holds and sequences that drastically depart from the bolt line. More trad than sport. The first third is great, the finish was not. I second the difficult clips (poor bolt placements up high) and it being high in the grade. Oct 7, 2014