Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Jeff Webb, 1989
Page Views: 2,104 total · 13/month
Shared By: Kai Ewert on May 30, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Location

The obvious widening splitter crack to the right of Heart of Darkness.

Description

Start this crack with a bit of a corner on a flake, bypassing just about all of the hand-size portion of the crack. Climb the widening splitter to its end, then trend towards the anchor atop Heart of Darkness on face and arete.

The smoothness of the crack, the nice sharp edge (for use once it gets wider) and the variety of climbing on such short a climb make this an overlooked semiclassic.

Rated 5.10b in the Vogel guide for some reason.

Protection

A single set of cams from hand size to as large as you care to carry, and a sling for horn that is the top of the crack.
The face/arete section has no bolts - heads up.

Anchor: bolts with chains atop Heart of Darkness

Photos

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