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Routes in Conrad Rock - Heart of Darkness Corridor

Body Stem TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle (aka Apocalypse Now), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jeff Webb, 1989
Page Views: 1,225 total, 11/month
Shared By: Kai Ewert on May 30, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Location

The obvious widening splitter crack to the right of Heart of Darkness.

Description

Start this crack with a bit of a corner on a flake, bypassing just about all of the hand-size portion of the crack. Climb the widening splitter to its end, then trend towards the anchor atop Heart of Darkness on face and arete.

The smoothness of the crack, the nice sharp edge (for use once it gets wider) and the variety of climbing on such short a climb make this an overlooked semiclassic.

Rated 5.10b in the Vogel guide for some reason.

Protection

A single set of cams from hand size to as large as you care to carry, and a sling for horn that is the top of the crack.
The face/arete section has no bolts - heads up.

Anchor: bolts with chains atop Heart of Darkness

Photos

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Max Rausch
Monterey, California
Max Rausch   Monterey, California
Takes a couple #3's, a #4 and a #5 if you have it. Pretty fun, with good arm bars. If you don't want to scramble up the semi- spooky slab to the HOD anchors, (I didn't) its really easy to just down climb the crack and pull your gear. Oct 28, 2016
Ryan Kelly
work.
 
Ryan Kelly   work.
 
Rapping off the top of the crack would cut out half the route. Dec 4, 2009
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.9
Gear for me was BD #3, 3.5, 4(way tipped out). The climbing is easy if you are comfortable in the wide stuff, but if you aren't, an old 4.5 or new 5 would keep the climbing less runout Nov 7, 2009
ChugachMan  
 
Fun route to do while waiting for Heart of Darkness if someone is on it. If you're careful, and set it up right, can counterweight rap off top of crack instead of going to HoD chains... make sure you have it setup so it won't roll off though! Oct 26, 2009
Pat C
Honolulu
5.8
Pat C   Honolulu
5.8
easy, but camalot 4 cams are real tipped. One can lieback this thing in like 30 seconds (as my following brother did). Apr 21, 2009