Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
GPS: 33.98946, -116.14351
FA: Jeff Webb, 1989
Page Views: 2,736 total · 13/month
Shared By: Kai Ewert on May 30, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Location Suggest change

The obvious widening splitter crack to the right of Heart of Darkness.

Description Suggest change

Start this crack with a bit of a corner on a flake, bypassing just about all of the hand-size portion of the crack. Climb the widening splitter to its end, then trend towards the anchor atop Heart of Darkness on face and arete.

The smoothness of the crack, the nice sharp edge (for use once it gets wider) and the variety of climbing on such short a climb make this an overlooked semiclassic.

Rated 5.10b in the Vogel guide for some reason.

Protection Suggest change

A single set of cams from hand size to as large as you care to carry, and a sling for horn that is the top of the crack.
The face/arete section has no bolts - heads up.

Anchor: bolts with chains atop Heart of Darkness

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Photos

Leading up at twilight
Leading up at twilight
 0
The 20 feet of crack at the start.
The 20 feet of crack at the start.
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