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Routes in Lower Ice Caves

Bloodhound S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bumble Bee, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Continental Breakfast S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Continental Call S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Moanin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leather Queen S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Local Talent S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mel's Diner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plastic Prince S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Road To Nowhere S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smell The Coffee S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snooze Control S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starbuck's Coffee S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alan Nelson & Richard Wright
Page Views: 188 total, 2/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on May 26, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Smell the Coffe is a bit of an anomoly for the Ice Caves. The route is long, sustained, and relatively unpolished, which distinguishes it from its scruffy neighbors to the right. Considering its length & texture, this is probably one of the better 5.11b's at Rifle.

The crux is basically getting off the ground, with a reachy crank between pockets (a slopey pinch facilitates this move for shorties). Traverse left along the obvious series of pockets, to a pumpy sequence moving into a shallow groove. After copping a great rest out left, charge up the excellent, textured headwall. Enduro, technical crimping on sharp brown rock leads to the chains.

Location

This is on the far left of the "dirt mound" climbs that include Wake Up Call and Continental Call. It's the first route you come to after The Bumble Bee.

Protection

11 bolts and anchor.

Photos

John Byrnes
Fort Collins, CO
John Byrnes   Fort Collins, CO  
The start of this route (traverse) could use another bolt between #1 & #2, or maybe just move #2 down and right a bit.

Right now you have to reach high above your head to clip #2, which is a spinning cold-shut. You have good hand holds, but the feet are polished and insecure. If you blow it, you will certainly hit the deck hard.

You can mitigate this by using your stick to pre-hang #2 with a longer draw. Don't clip the rope though, because if you do, you'll pendulum like mad (and likely hit the wall/ground) if you fall near #1, which is the main crux. Aug 29, 2015
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
I personally disagree with the description of the route. It's not really sustained. It's a boulder problem at the beginning to a no hands rest. To really easy climbing, to a technical easier boulder problem at the top. It is long but not sustained. It's an okay problem, definitely not even close to the best 11b in Rifle, and I don't think it's even the best 11 at its own wall. That is just my opinion, but it's a cool route if you want a fun boulder problem to warm up on! Oct 6, 2014