Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Dave Pegg, 2009
Page Views: 1,074 total · 11/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Sep 12, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Bloodhound is a long, quality extension to Road to Nowhere, a often neglected 11a in Rifle. It features hard, technical climbing and a burly finish through a roof.

After climbing Road to Nowhere, continue above the anchor on relatively easy ground for a few bolts on excellent stone that is beautifully featured limestone. After clipping a bolt on a rounded arete feature, you start to enter a series of crux moves that doesn't stop for a few bolts with scant rests. Make a difficult move left around the arete to a good stance before firing through a difficult undercling section, moving right on difficult feet. Move up on good holds while fighting the pump through a "hollow" feature where a perma-draw is located to a series of rails. Lock off on the upper, slanted rail to two tiny crimps and a hard move to the right where a large jug is found. Rest before the final roof where underclings, a couple of sweet pockets and some big moves are found. A nice knee bar is found to help clip the anchors.

A 70 meter rope is required.

Location

This is the extension to Road to Nowhere, an 11a that is about 30 yards to the right of the Plastic Prince "mini-cave" routes.

Protection

16 bolts with one perma-draw plus the anchor.

Photos