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Routes in Lower Ice Caves

Bloodhound S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bumble Bee, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Continental Breakfast S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Continental Call S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Moanin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leather Queen S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Local Talent S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mel's Diner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plastic Prince S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Road To Nowhere S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smell The Coffee S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snooze Control S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starbuck's Coffee S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Dave Pegg, 2009
Page Views: 893 total, 12/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Sep 12, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Bloodhound is a long, quality extension to Road to Nowhere, a often neglected 11a in Rifle. It features hard, technical climbing and a burly finish through a roof.

After climbing Road to Nowhere, continue above the anchor on relatively easy ground for a few bolts on excellent stone that is beautifully featured limestone. After clipping a bolt on a rounded arete feature, you start to enter a series of crux moves that doesn't stop for a few bolts with scant rests. Make a difficult move left around the arete to a good stance before firing through a difficult undercling section, moving right on difficult feet. Move up on good holds while fighting the pump through a "hollow" feature where a perma-draw is located to a series of rails. Lock off on the upper, slanted rail to two tiny crimps and a hard move to the right where a large jug is found. Rest before the final roof where underclings, a couple of sweet pockets and some big moves are found. A nice knee bar is found to help clip the anchors.

A 70 meter rope is required.

Location

This is the extension to Road to Nowhere, an 11a that is about 30 yards to the right of the Plastic Prince "mini-cave" routes.

Protection

16 bolts with one perma-draw plus the anchor.

Photos

Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Fantastic route. More people should get on it. I think it's a reasonable onsight at the grade, because there is a lot of opportunity to hang out, test out holds, downclimb to stances, etc.

There were draws on it this weekend, so it's a great time to try out this awesome new addition. Oct 26, 2015
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
Nice route, Dave! Apr 29, 2013