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Routes in Lower Ice Caves

Bloodhound S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bumble Bee, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Continental Breakfast S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Continental Call S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Moanin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leather Queen S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Local Talent S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mel's Diner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plastic Prince S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Road To Nowhere S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smell The Coffee S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snooze Control S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starbuck's Coffee S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jonathan Houck
Page Views: 262 total, 1/month
Shared By: chad wolak on Apr 18, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Plastic Prince is ~40' upstream of the large dirt mound that marks the start of the popular moderates "Wake Up Call" and "Continental Breakfast".

The climbing begins in a large hueco-like mini-cave capable of holding three or four medium size farm animals. Climb up and into the cave, clipping two bolts, then move right for clip three, and tug skyward toward the anchors (with three more clips along the way).

It is fun, steep, and sustained gymnastic climbing on amazing and interesting holds. This is certainly worth another star if only the route was longer.

Protection

Eight draws (includes the anchor).

Photos

Broke a hold off in between bolts 1and 2. Still goes and probably no harder but shorter fold might notice a difference. May 15, 2016
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Awesome, Jeff. Thanks a ton! Jul 19, 2013
J Achey  
All the old hardware including anchors on Plastic Prince and Local Talent (route to the L) now replaced with Wave Bolt glue-ins. The old hardware was really bad! Jul 18, 2013
monie  
Thanks a lot for re-bolting Plastic Prince, Mike! I can't wait to get back on it:) Jul 8, 2013
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Replaced the 1st, 2nd, and 4th bolts yesterday with hardware courtesy of the ASCA. The old 4th bolt snapped with barely any force on the wrench, and the 1st snapped with three small taps of the hammer. Kind of sketch. Jun 25, 2013
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Wow, hope you're okay. I've had Plastic Prince on my rebolting to-do list.

Did the bolt itself actually break? Or did the hanger come off? How did it happen? Jun 13, 2013
monie  
Hey! The 2nd bolt broke on me last week. The 4th (I think it was the 4th) looks sketchy too. Be careful! I think the route needs some new hardware, but unfortunately I can't do it. Bummer, it's one of my favorite routes. Jun 12, 2013
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
This is actually a really nice route. Mostly nice, skin-friendly jugs, with an interesting lip crux. Too bad its so short. Sadly there are many routes more polished than this. Aug 3, 2009
The most polished route at Rifle? Mar 14, 2004