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Routes in Lower Ice Caves

Bloodhound S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bumble Bee, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Continental Breakfast S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Continental Call S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Moanin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leather Queen S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Local Talent S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mel's Diner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plastic Prince S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Road To Nowhere S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smell The Coffee S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snooze Control S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starbuck's Coffee S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Annie Smith
Page Views: 175 total, 2/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on May 26, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Steep climbing that is harder than it looks. This climb seemed to keep people away due to it's originally widely spaced bolts, polished holds, and its isolation from other climbs. Before having a couple of bolts added, people had decked trying to clip the 3rd bolt. Now, with 5 bolts it's super safe.

Location

The first route you come to on the Ice Cave Wall when you hike from the lower parking lot by the bridge. Just upstream of the Lower Ice Cave.

Protection

5 bolts and anchor. Two bolts were added in August 2010 during the Rifle Cleanup.

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Jordan Delaporte
Grand Junction
  5.10c/d
Jordan Delaporte   Grand Junction
  5.10c/d
Agree, very glassy making it way harder than rated. Oct 31, 2016
Andrew Hewitt
Somerville
  5.9+
Andrew Hewitt   Somerville
  5.9+
The hardest 9 ever. Also the most polished. No decking potential though! Oct 13, 2013
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
Two more bolts were added to this as part of the Rifle Cleanup, so you shouldn't have to worry about hitting the ground now. Aug 23, 2010
JFK
San Diego, CA
JFK   San Diego, CA
I second that. Felt harder than 5.9? Maybe that's just me not being familiar with Rifle climbing. Aug 18, 2010
Avery N
Boulder, CO
Avery N   Boulder, CO
I seriously wished I had a few small-med sized nuts for between bolts 2 and 3. Definite decking potential when clipping the awkward 3rd bolt. Jul 3, 2009