Avg: 3.9 from 22 votes
|Type:||Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Jim Bridwell and Kevin Worrall, 1973|
|Page Views:||12,011 total · 75/month|
|Shared By:||stevecurtis on Apr 13, 2008 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Here's a pitch-by-pitch breakdown from a modern ascent:
P1: From the 2-bolt belay on the NEB (P5 on the MP description), go straight up the thin corner and past a roof (12b). Continue up the flared corner with thin pro (5.10). At the top of the corner, bust left around a roof to gain a low angle handcrack, and follow this to a belay with 1 good bolt and a slung chockstone. 160'.
P2: Up the obvious hand and fist crack, starting as a steep LF corner, becoming a vertical splitter with a few pods and flares. This pitch is #3 camalot sized nearly the whole way, with a few spots for smaller gear, and one spot for a larger cam (#4 Camalot). With 2 Blue Camalots, you can walk them up the entire way. Near the end of this pitch, the crack pinches down to fingers. Bust right here on good edges and big wedged flakes (felt secure) to a belay stance with 1 good bolt (backs up with #1-#3 Camalot). 5.10, 170'
P3: Up a hand crack to a small OW roof. Stemming helped here. Higher, encounter another OW section, with a few helpful crimps. You could protect this section with one #4 Camalot (new style worked fine), backcleaning it after the first OW roof to use on the second OW section. After the OW, follow a wide hands crack. When it pinches down to thin hands, make a big (~40') traverse right on a narrow ledge system (the right "arm" of the crucifix as seen from afar). Belay at the end of the ledge at 1 good bolt, with some backup gear at your feet. 5.10, 120'.
P4: Stem right off the end of the ledge (11c, super-exposed!), and up a thin corner (RPs). Continue up the corner on good fingers to another crux (11d) featuring a cool kneebar. Continue up and through more pumpy, sustained 5.10 climbing with good pro, eventually passing the huge roof on its right. Above the roof, trend left, topping out past one more 10+ crux. 180', belay off a tree.