Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Rick Sylvester and Ben Read 11/71 FFA: Jim Donini and Rick Rieder 6/72
Page Views: 10,529 total · 64/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Nov 9, 2010
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is a burley and sustained, mostly thin hands-to-wide crack system that offers plenty of fun and adventure. Should be considered a must-do for the aspiring 5.10 offwidth climber, even though some of the harder sections were not necessarily offwidth. This route is very overhanging, exposed, and basically wild!

Start with a steep chimney and go up. The second pitch is a sweet 3 to 4-inch hand and fist crack that seems to go on and on. The 3rd pitch involves working up to a thin flake, making some wild moves up and right on it, then cruising thru some 5.10- thin hands, finishing with some squeeze to the belay on a chockstone. Another pitch of 5.10 fingers (we climbed the left of the two cracks) takes you to the crux 5th pitch. This entails a pumpy undercling out a right-trending flake system. This section felt like 10+ to me but I was pretty tired by then.... if you're feeling fresh maybe it's only 10a as listed in my '87 Meyers and Reid guidebook?

Location Suggest change

Located on the left, overhanging side of the Dictionary dihedral, it starts by firing up the crack system that starts with the steep chimney. Keep going 5 pitches straight up until merging with the last pitch of Braille Book, and follow the descent as for BB.

Protection Suggest change

Bring at least a double set of thin hand to fist sized cams, and perhaps one bigger-than-fist piece. Some finger-sized gear is also nice. Climbers at their limit may want a triple set of cams to adequately cover the sustained sections.