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Routes in Higher Cathedral Rock

Blind Man's Bluff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Braille Book T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crucifix, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mary's Tears T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northeast Buttress T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Perfect Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Remain in Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Renaissance Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Sequel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Syllable, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Roger Breedlove and Bill St. Jean (1976)
Page Views: 125 total, 2/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Oct 27, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a fun and adventurous climbs up the outside face to the left of Braille Book. The climb consists almost entirely of face climbing on big knobs and features, with occasional crack systems for pro. There are no bolts on Blind Man's Bluff, which makes the route finding and protection the main challenges of the climb. The climb feels a bit like The Flakes on MCR, but shorter and not quite as good.

About 20ft left of the start of Braille Book is an outside corner with a large system of detached flakes resting against the wall. Begin by scrambling up the flakes (mind the loose rock) to reach a point beneath and to the right of a prominent roof. Climb an offwidth crack to the right of the roof and then stem across to traverse left just a few feet above the lip. Follow a crack system angling up and left to reach a half-driven pin. Tie off the pin and make a couple 5.8 moves traversing left to gain another crack system. Climb up the left side of a sort of rotten flake to reach a stance with a horizontal crack for an anchor (2-3"). This is a long pitch and has potential for very bad rope drag if you place gear in the wrong places.

The second pitch begins with a steep flake above the anchor, then follows a corner system (5.9). After the corner wander up the face (runout), aiming for another left facing corner and roof. Move past the roof and climb easy terrain to a ledge atop some pinnacles and chockstones.

Pitch three climbs up beneath the bulge, then traverses left before finally pulling over. Climb the arete to the right of a roof. At this point there's probably several ways to finish. I continued up and left to a bolted anchor with mussy-hooks (I think part of Remain In Light), then climbed up and right through some sort of loose flakes. This takes you big ledges and a tree where you join up with Braille Book and every other route in the area.

Climb the final 5.4 pitch of Braille Book to finish. Use the standard walk off to descend.

Protection

Pro to 3"

Photos

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