Type: Trad, Aid, 1200 ft, 11 pitches, Grade V
FA: 2017
Page Views: 373 total · 45/month
Shared By: kevin deweese on Jul 22, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Between Learning To Crawl and Wild Apes. Shares one pitch with Wild Apes, Two Pitches with Northeast Buttress, 20' with Learning to Crawl, and ~150' of Gemini.
Typical Valley Aid Rack thin to wid(ish) Beaks required. Skinny Leader helpful.
Fun climbing on an imposing and beautiful wall with great views of the Spires and into the valley proper.

P1 (Wild Apes) 5.easy up long ramp to a ledge at the obvious corner system
P2 A2+ Thin beaking on fragile flakes then rivets to penji left to obvious left-facing corner system
P3 A2 Maneuver around a roof then take the right-leaning corner to belay below roof (or continue to another belay lust past the roof)
P4 A2 Move around the roof past another set of belay bolts, follow left-leaning corner to rivets and hooks to right facing flake to belay
P5 A1Move right and take path of least resistance to belay
P6 A2+ Steep Joins Learning To Crawl for 20-30' then cuts right into steep finger-sized crack system to a roof. Passing roof requires managing a guillotine flake to place follow system to belay. Shares Gemini from Roof to Anchors. 
P7 C2 Wide Continue up crack to belay. Shared partly with Gemini. 
P8 A2 Continue up crack, moving right at the roof to face, hook, cams, and nailing to ledge,
P9 (Northeast Buttress) 5.8
P10 (Northeast Buttress) 5.9

Retreat after pitch 2 by rapping left to connect to Learning to Crawl anchors. Retreat difficult after pitch 6
Descend as for Northeast Buttress. Walk Off

Location

Between Learning To Crawl and Wild Apes. 

Protection

All anchors at least two 3/8" bolts.

Triples through 1.5" double through 3", 4" useful but not needed (Offsets useful)
Single set nuts
4 each beaks #1-3
1 each arrows #1-3
a few angles to 1"
Rivet hangers
Hooks
Portaledge required

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