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Routes in The Atridae

Agamemnon T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Cruxless Knickers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Female Friends T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Have a Nice Flight S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
It'll Never Fly T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Muldoon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Necrophiliac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orestes T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Telemachus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wizard of Ice T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 141 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Peter Jackson and Reg Williams, 26/9/65
Page Views: 1,423 total · 11/month
Shared By: Dave Poulsen on Mar 28, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

A fantastic route on great rock that ascends the right hand arete of the main face of the Atridae Wall. Starts up a short wide left facing corner crack to an orange cave then up short crack to belay on a good ledge and the arete. Great climbing with good moves on juggy holds leads up right past square flat red overhang and onto the face above to top.

Location

The route is located on the right hand arete of the Arridae Wall just a short walk up and left from the Pines camp ground. Rappel rings are near the top of the route but require two ropes or at least a 70m rope, or a 60m rappel can be found with a bit of a scramble over to the right out from the top of Agamemnon.

Protection

Passive pro is the go but a few smallish cams come in handy. There is a fixed pin in the cave on the first pitch but it should be backed up with a nut placement. A good chicken head can be thankfully slung at the overhang on the second pitch. There is no fixed anchor at the top but a good gear anchor is possible with a couple of slings and a good nut placement.

Photos

there is a two bolt rap anchor at the top of the second. this was ther first route we did there... so awesome Jul 7, 2009
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.8
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.8
Not PG13. A small nut protects the crux, and there is a piton below it.

Two pitches easily combined. Apr 11, 2016

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