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Muldoon

5.7 PG13, Trad, 141 ft (43 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.5 from 32 votes
FA: Peter Jackson and Reg Williams, 26/9/65
International > Australia > Victoria > Mt Arapiles > (1) Southern Crags > Atridae

Description

A fantastic route on great rock that ascends the right hand arete of the main face of the Atridae Wall. Starts up a short wide left facing corner crack to an orange cave then up short crack to belay on a good ledge and the arete. Great climbing with good moves on juggy holds leads up right past square flat red overhang and onto the face above to top.

Location

The route is located on the right hand arete of the Arridae Wall just a short walk up and left from the Pines camp ground. Rappel rings are near the top of the route but require two ropes or at least a 70m rope, or a 60m rappel can be found with a bit of a scramble over to the right out from the top of Agamemnon.

Protection

Passive pro is the go but a few smallish cams come in handy. There is a fixed pin in the cave on the first pitch but it should be backed up with a nut placement. A good chicken head can be thankfully slung at the overhang on the second pitch. There is no fixed anchor at the top but a good gear anchor is possible with a couple of slings and a good nut placement.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Muldoon marked in red
[Hide Photo] Muldoon marked in red
Emma topping out
[Hide Photo] Emma topping out
Mark just about to reach the belay at the end of Pitch 1 on Muldoon (13***).
[Hide Photo] Mark just about to reach the belay at the end of Pitch 1 on Muldoon (13***).
Joss working out the tricky crux moves.
[Hide Photo] Joss working out the tricky crux moves.
Muldoon ascents the right hand arete of the main Atridae Wall shown in this photo. In the background is the wide chimney of Agamemnon... another classic
[Hide Photo] Muldoon ascents the right hand arete of the main Atridae Wall shown in this photo. In the background is the wide chimney of Agamemnon... another classic

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

david wilson
Omaha, NE
[Hide Comment] there is a two bolt rap anchor at the top of the second. this was ther first route we did there... so awesome Jul 7, 2009
Nate Ball

  5.8
[Hide Comment] Not PG13. A small nut protects the crux, and there is a piton below it.

Two pitches easily combined. Apr 11, 2016
Ryan Mac
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Can protect the crux with a BD #6-sized nut, can can back it up with a #4-sized one as well. Great climb, just a steep jug hall with good pro. Nov 18, 2019