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Routes in The Atridae

Agamemnon T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Female Friends T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Have a Nice Flight S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
It'll Never Fly T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Muldoon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Orestes T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Speedie & Stone - 1964
Page Views: 1,788 total, 14/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 17, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

This is the photogenic chimney tucked up in the Atridae and visable from The Pines. Back and foot and full-body stemming will get you to the top in one or two pitches. Wonderful, fun climbing.

Protection

Standard rack. Placements are spaced.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.6
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.6
It was getting dark. Got to the ledge on the right side wall in one pitch and tried to step over from there, but didn't want to tear my groin. Instead of continuing up the crack and stepping over higher, I just down-climbed from there, since my belayer didn't want to follow it.

Absurdly difficult for 5.5? Maybe. But the protection is all there when you need it. As with most routes at Arapiles, the pitches are easily combined.

My advice: near the top, do not aim for the chimney/slab exit, but instead for the arete left of it. Apr 11, 2016
sibylle
Colorado
sibylle   Colorado
A pleasant shady climb for a hot day. It's ridiculously hard for 5.5, but I thought that almost every climb at the Araps was absurdly difficult for its rating. Jun 5, 2009
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.5
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.5
I don't know about any heal hooks, and I don't really have any idea about the grading either - so different from any type of climbing I've done. Regardless, great fun, great views, and great photo op. A must do if at Araps. May 20, 2009
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
 
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
 
This may have been the hardest 5.5 I've ever done. I seem to remember pulling a heel hook over a bulge. Feb 13, 2008