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Routes in The Atridae

Agamemnon T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Cruxless Knickers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Female Friends T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Have a Nice Flight S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
It'll Never Fly T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Muldoon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Necrophiliac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orestes T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Telemachus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wizard of Ice T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Speedie & Stone - 1964
Page Views: 1,940 total · 14/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 17, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route

17 Opinions

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This is the photogenic chimney tucked up in the Atridae and visable from The Pines. Back and foot and full-body stemming will get you to the top in one or two pitches. Wonderful, fun climbing.


Standard rack. Placements are spaced.


Boulder, CO
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
This may have been the hardest 5.5 I've ever done. I seem to remember pulling a heel hook over a bulge. Feb 13, 2008
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
I don't know about any heal hooks, and I don't really have any idea about the grading either - so different from any type of climbing I've done. Regardless, great fun, great views, and great photo op. A must do if at Araps. May 20, 2009
sibylle Hechtel
sibylle Hechtel   Colorado
A pleasant shady climb for a hot day. It's ridiculously hard for 5.5, but I thought that almost every climb at the Araps was absurdly difficult for its rating. Jun 5, 2009
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
It was getting dark. Got to the ledge on the right side wall in one pitch and tried to step over from there, but didn't want to tear my groin. Instead of continuing up the crack and stepping over higher, I just down-climbed from there, since my belayer didn't want to follow it.

Absurdly difficult for 5.5? Maybe. But the protection is all there when you need it. As with most routes at Arapiles, the pitches are easily combined.

My advice: near the top, do not aim for the chimney/slab exit, but instead for the arete left of it. Apr 11, 2016

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