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Routes in Morning Glory Alcove

Black watch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corsair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firstlight TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Highlander T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Morning Glory T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trail of Dawn T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,204 total, 10/month
Shared By: nickv on Mar 4, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

The left most route (facing the cliff) in the M.G alcove. Climb up to obvious groove, near the top of the groove step left onto the face. follow to top.

Location

From the top of the alcove locate the right most (facing ocean) anchor (1 bolt can be backed up with nuts) and rap in.

Protection

Trad gear and two bolts. 1 bolt anchor can be backed up with gear.

Photos

John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.9
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.9
It's really easy to access this route by walking (climber's left) across the rocks a few feet from where the standard 2-bolt Morning Glory rappel drops you off.

I found the movement and the protection to be thoughtful and good throughout the climb. Getting to the high first bolt might seem sketchy but the climbing is not too hard. The crux is high on the route when you have plenty of gear in already.

A #3 C4 backs up the single bolt anchor at the top very well. Jul 7, 2015