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Routes in The Dihedrals

Ankles Away S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Atrophy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Foster Child S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kids With Guns S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Long Slab aka Milk Duds S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Narcissism S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pillsbury S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Twist and Shout S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Paul Sloan and Eddie Whittemore, 1991
Page Views: 5,080 total, 42/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 1, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


116 Opinions

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Description

Climb the arete. Lots of balancy, technical moves keep this one interesting.

Getting to the first bolt without a stick clip can be a bit spooky if you're pushing the grade. Either crimp up the left side of the arete below the first bolt, or traverse in from the right side.

Location

Look for an arete in the Dihedrals area, just to the right of Ankles Away.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors

Photos

Beth Santoro
Chattanooga, TN
Beth Santoro   Chattanooga, TN
I also do not recommend this for a beginning leader, and agree that starting on the left underneath the bolt is the best start. As a flash it climbed much harder than a 9, and it is beta intensive. Aug 31, 2017
ecessg  
i would not recommend this to a beginner! if they manage to get above the first bolt without wigging and getting flipped upside down by a slack jawed belayer, a few other cruxes await them. that being said, if you are a competent 5.10 climber you will love twist and shout! ankles away is the beginner climb, and even it is no gimme at the bottom. Dec 22, 2015
Michael Dom
  5.9
Michael Dom  
  5.9
Engaging climb that has good holds for feet and hands. An excellent beginner lead. Dec 22, 2015
David Brooke
  5.9+
David Brooke  
  5.9+
Was a pretty intense lead with tired arms. Getting to the first bolt wasn't too bad, good holds especially with the crack on the right. Getting past the first bolt was a little trickier, kept trying to go left and right of the bolt, but found the line being straight up just slightly right of the bolt. Sweet route that seemed to keep going and going. May 24, 2012
Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
This is one of my Favorite 9s at foster. Its a stout 5.9, with a lower crux pulling the small roof after the first bolt and a second crux transitioning off the ledge rest to the face halfway up. Nice exposure and one of the taller routes. Fun moves on sidepulls, crimps a few jugs as well. Aug 15, 2011
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10a
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10a
Actually, I thought starting on the left side of the arete was easier, and closer to the bolt line as well. Either way, it's a spicy start, so I'm not sorry I stickclipped the first bolt. Great lead! Jul 20, 2009