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Routes in The Dihedrals

Ankles Away S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Atrophy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Foster Child S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kids With Guns S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Long Slab aka Milk Duds S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Narcissism S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pillsbury S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Twist and Shout S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 688 total · 14/month
Shared By: Alex Whitman on Apr 6, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Bring your dancing shoes! and your finger strength. This sequential, beta intensive masterpiece will have you on your toes and bearing down on tiny crimps from the first bolt to the chains. I would describe most of the holds as heinous, but they aren't even that good. Enjoy this Southern "Slab" every move is a gem.

Location

This is the first route directly right of the Dihedrals area and two routes left of the classic "Pillsbury." While your boyfriend is working on his first 5.9 you can show him how to climb with some technique and finesse.

Protection

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Bring a stick clip or use the resident dead tree as the first bolt is way up there and the tiny crimps start immediately.

Photos

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Blake Allen Green  
  5.12d
This route was graded 13a in the old guidebook, and I think the reason for the discrepancy is that many people trend right at the first couple of bolts, using a large flake feature. While I don't think this is "off route" in any contrived sense, I do think the bolt placement makes it apparent the FA wanted the line to go straight up through the first three bolts. That being said, going straight up also adds more difficult slab moves and more crimps and foot sequences similar to the rest of the route, and actually climbs much better than deviating right. This direct beta makes the route more sustained for sure, and you have to get more back at the rest. Also, to me, this route feels more than one grade harder than Proposition # 1. The crux at the end is super hard and pretty low percentage. May 17, 2014

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