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Twist and Shout

5.9+, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 178 votes
FA: Paul Sloan and Eddie Whittemore, 1991
Tennessee > Foster Falls > Dihedrals
Access Issue: Daily online climbing registration required for TN State Park areas Details

Description

Climb the arete. Lots of balancy, technical moves keep this one interesting.

Getting to the first bolt without a stick clip can be a bit spooky if you're pushing the grade. Either crimp up the left side of the arete below the first bolt, or traverse in from the right side.

Location

Look for an arete in the Dihedrals area, just to the right of Ankles Away.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start to the right of are then cross over and up from there
[Hide Photo] Start to the right of are then cross over and up from there
The route follows the arĂȘte
[Hide Photo] The route follows the arĂȘte
taking a break on a ledge (twist and shout)
[Hide Photo] taking a break on a ledge (twist and shout)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Actually, I thought starting on the left side of the arete was easier, and closer to the bolt line as well. Either way, it's a spicy start, so I'm not sorry I stickclipped the first bolt. Great lead! Jul 20, 2009
Dylan Demyanek
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This is one of my Favorite 9s at foster. Its a stout 5.9, with a lower crux pulling the small roof after the first bolt and a second crux transitioning off the ledge rest to the face halfway up. Nice exposure and one of the taller routes. Fun moves on sidepulls, crimps a few jugs as well. Aug 15, 2011
David Brooke
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Was a pretty intense lead with tired arms. Getting to the first bolt wasn't too bad, good holds especially with the crack on the right. Getting past the first bolt was a little trickier, kept trying to go left and right of the bolt, but found the line being straight up just slightly right of the bolt. Sweet route that seemed to keep going and going. May 24, 2012
[Hide Comment] i would not recommend this to a beginner! if they manage to get above the first bolt without wigging and getting flipped upside down by a slack jawed belayer, a few other cruxes await them. that being said, if you are a competent 5.10 climber you will love twist and shout! ankles away is the beginner climb, and even it is no gimme at the bottom. Dec 22, 2015
Beth Santoro
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] I also do not recommend this for a beginning leader, and agree that starting on the left underneath the bolt is the best start. As a flash it climbed much harder than a 9, and it is beta intensive. Aug 31, 2017
rayshoots
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] I forgot my nut tool when tearing down the anchors, or else I would have fixed this. One of the anchors is solid, but the other spins. Bring a nut tool to try and tighten if you can. Apr 9, 2019
Tyler Phillips
Louisville, KY
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely a a 10a/b at least without beta. Very specific moves that had me confused a bit, coupled with the glassy rock made this feel like the hardest 9 I have ever attempted. As everyone else has said, not for lead beginner, or really anyone just getting into 9's. Apr 25, 2019
Brandon Newton
Nashville, TN
 
[Hide Comment] Felt this route was very straightforward and a mellow lead. Has a fun pull over the roof and a pistol-ish move near the top. Don't be afraid to give it a try if you're a new leader. It's definitely not harder than 5.9! Aug 5, 2020
Andrew Kelleher
New York, NY
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Start left, there's a secret right-facing jug on the right side. I think if you get the sequence right it's 5.9+, but very hard to read. Feb 24, 2021
David K
New Paltz, NY
  5.9
[Hide Comment] An area classic for the grade! Apr 22, 2021