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Routes in The Dihedrals

Ankles Away S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Atrophy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Foster Child S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kids With Guns S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Long Slab aka Milk Duds S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Narcissism S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pillsbury S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Twist and Shout S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Zack Jones and Craig Estes, 1992
Page Views: 4,768 total · 37/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 1, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


108 Opinions

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Description

Much harder to onsight than redpoint. Weave up the face past several cruxes. Just when you think it's over, the last desparate moves up a crack to the anchors really get the forearms burning. Of course, there are "secret" holds that make things easier. But if I told you where they were, then they wouldn't be a secret, would they?

Location

In the Dihedrals area, on the left face of the dihedral. It's the next bolted line left from Ankles Away.

Protection

7 bolts, anchors

Photos

grizz Burton  
 
Very fun climb with multiple cruxes and few rests. Had to rehearse this one a several times before the redpoint. Apr 6, 2008
willeslinger
Golden, Colorado
willeslinger   Golden, Colorado
Second to last bolt before the anchors is almost rusted out, it's a spinner at this point. Makes the run-out up to the next bolt pretty sketchy. The bolt probably needs to be replaced. Sep 24, 2010
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
Continuously awkward from the bottom to top. Jul 11, 2011
Nick Evans  
 
Good mix of juggy power moves and crimpy slab moves. Fun throughout. Feb 15, 2012
TobyTowne
Dalton, GA
TobyTowne   Dalton, GA
awesome climb. very sustained 5.10b+ climbing with few rest options. Aug 26, 2012
Brandon.Phillips
Portola, CA
 
Brandon.Phillips   Portola, CA
 
This is one of the best routes I've climbed at Foster Falls. Sep 21, 2015
Michael Dom  
 
A good route. I really liked the pseudo handjam at the top. Dec 22, 2015
Amazing pinches, crimps, underclings and side pulls. Nearly every move is fun and interesting! Very enjoyable climbing! Nov 21, 2016
Rob D.
Brooklyn, NY
 
Rob D.   Brooklyn, NY
 
Beautiful route, the crux hanger is spinning and the bolt looks older than many of the other ones in the area. Mar 25, 2018
Becca Martin
Chattanooga, TN
  5.10b
Becca Martin   Chattanooga, TN
  5.10b
Bats love to live in the cracks of this climb. Be careful when sticking your hands in those juggy side pulls! Specifically, the one mid-route and the one right before the anchors. Aug 12, 2018

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