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Routes in Las Estrellas (The Stars)

2 Dead Chipmunks and 1 Dead Beaver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
23 Diablos S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
3 R System S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Channelize Your Hatred S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Curse (of the Furry Beast), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Estrellita S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fully Engaged S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good Kung Fu S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Invisible Seam, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jesus Amarillo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kung Pao Pupert S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Pantera Rosa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Landscaping S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lickety Split S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Los Tres Chiflados (Moe) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Machismo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Marklar S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Marklar Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Fluffer's Wild Ride S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pacheco Poder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Harmonica S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Marklar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rat Bastard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Send it Pink Pocket Express S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Take Me To Your Marklar S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderkiss S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ulack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 950 ft, 9 pitches
FA: Hank Caylor & Keith Guillory
Page Views: 5,008 total, 42/month
Shared By: Bingman on Jan 31, 2008
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Excellent route that takes an inspiring line up the entire steep North wall of las Estrellas Canyon. The route traverses from left (West) to right (East) as it goes up the wall.

p1 5.11b Very technical low, then eases up a bit.
p2 5.7 Take the slab/gully leading right
p3 5.10d The 'Hash Mark' pitch, goes up and right into the incredible dihedral.
p4 5.11d EXCELLENT pitch, very fun, right and then straight up into the crux.
p5 5.10b Traverses up and right to a ledge.
p6 5.12a Traverses right and then embark on the crux straight up!
p7 5.11b Very steep climbing up big tufas [EDIT: This pitch has reportedly been subject to rockfall and lost some holds and bolts. See commentary below.]
p8 5.9 Lame pitch, sharp.
p9 5.7 Worse than the last pitch, not recommended - sharp. The summit is very cool though, and you do have the entire wall below you, so pick your poison.

Descent: Rappel the route. Be very careful not to knock off rocks as the upper half of this route is above the Club Mex wall, which can be very busy. It is possible to jump onto a different rappel line that goes straight down the wall, however this is right above the Club Mex wall. Many of these pitches are traversing, so getting down can be kindof a bitch, but it's more than worth the excellent climbing.

Location

Start is about a 10 min. walk up the trail on the North Wall of Las Estrellas canyon. The route starts on a black face next to an obvious gnarly old tree stump.

Protection

Quickdraws. I can't remember how many we brought.
We did Thunderkiss as of December 2014. Super fun climb. As another comment had mentioned, the first six pitches are really pleasant. We onsighted them. Pitch seven has suffered from some sort of rock-break. It has a mildly spicy run-out. We free-ed pitch after three or four attempts. I'd say it's a short-cruxed 12+. There's maybe four hard moves. Jan 11, 2015
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
 
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
 
I got on this last week and found Doze's comment about the .11b pitch valid. Lots of rockfall on this pitch resulting in missing holds and a drastically increased grade for the moves there. We bailed. Swinging fall was dangerous given the runout on what used to be easy terrain.

I loved pitches 1-4. Recommend stopping after the killer pocket sequence on the .11d P4.



Dec 24, 2014
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
Tried the route yesterday 12/25/2010. Onsighted first six pitches, mostly solid rock and fun technical sequential climbing, we liked each one of those. The seventh overhanging pitch (5.11b in the book) stopped us completely however. The runout seemed a bit scary with potential for hitting a ledge underneath and the climbing itself felt way hard for 11b. Felt at least like a solid 5.12 to me. Lots of fragile rock as well. I'm wondering if any of the crucial holds (and bolts?) came off.
We had to bailout pathetically.
As far as rapels go there's an opportunity to straight line down from the top of 5th (5.10) pitch to the top anchors of one of the open projects going from the ledge above Club Mex. Be careful as 70m rope just barely makes it there and anchor isn't well visible from above. If you choose to rap down the route bring some bail binners, some anchors miss rings.
Overall great route and excellent job on first ascent, Hank & Keith

Update: Just studied the picture 'Hank bat hooking and drilling on the crux pitch.' The set of holds above Hank's head is missing now and only contains a small edge in the lower part. I'm a bit confused on the name of the picture though, as from description and the number of pitches it has to be 11b and not the 12a pitch Dec 26, 2010
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
This winter I did the whole route with Debbie. The register at the top didn't look like it had been touched since 2003 (the last deteriorating entry).

Fantastic route. BUT, after the close bolts of the first 7 (6??) pitches, the eighth out of the cave was a rude surprise. (OK the first pitch is slightly run out) My belayer was 85 pounds wet, and the last clip is tenuous and far enough above the bolt below to hit something at in the cave. Take care and choose right, grasshopper.

The last two pitches are unpleasant, but the perch at the top is worthwhile. Oct 24, 2010
Bingman
Fort Collins, CO
 
Bingman   Fort Collins, CO
 
The rock is solid throughout the entire route, especially for potrero.

The only reason I don't necessarily recommend the last 2 pitches is because the rock is sharp, you are cactus dodging, and the climbing is easy. There is some cool exposure and a good feeling of the entire estrellas wall below you, but these top two pitches are not too great in comparison to the spectacular pitches below.

With that in mind, the summit block is a very cool spot, again, do what you want - maybe I am just being a woos about sharp rock.

Props to Hank and Keith for putting a beautiful line up the best looking wall in Potrero! Very well done. Apr 21, 2008
Gilroy
Boulderado
Gilroy   Boulderado
Bryan - We removed all the grande choss we could on the multiple trips up the route so...the upper 3 or 4 pitches were worked over less than the lower ones. Nonetheless, I feel you will encounter more loose rock on Space Boyz than you will here.

We worked it hard with the objective of making a route that was reasonably safe for the Potrero and less than 5.12. Both Hank and I felt we succeeded but subsequent ascents thought the rating a bit stiff for 11.d but then again we thought pitch one was 10.d. 'Course that was after an evening of drinking at Homero's.

Ben - feel free to chime in here if you wish and both Hank and I appreciate you getting our names right! Glad you liked the route enough to write it up.

Jale dura!
Keith Apr 20, 2008
Bryan Howell
San Francisco, CA
Bryan Howell   San Francisco, CA
Hey Ben -- when you describe the last two pitches as "bad," do you mean bad as in bad climbing, or as in "large chunks of bad rock may fall badly on your head, killing you real bad"? Apr 16, 2008