Type: Sport, 950 ft, 9 pitches
FA: Hank Caylor & Keith Guillory
Page Views: 6,010 total · 41/month
Shared By: Bingman on Jan 31, 2008
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Excellent route that takes an inspiring line up the entire steep North wall of las Estrellas Canyon. The route traverses from left (West) to right (East) as it goes up the wall.

p1 5.11b Very technical low, then eases up a bit.
p2 5.7 Take the slab/gully leading right
p3 5.10d The 'Hash Mark' pitch, goes up and right into the incredible dihedral.
p4 5.11d EXCELLENT pitch, very fun, right and then straight up into the crux.
p5 5.10b Traverses up and right to a ledge.
p6 5.12a Traverses right and then embark on the crux straight up!
p7 5.11b Very steep climbing up big tufas [EDIT: This pitch has reportedly been subject to rockfall and lost some holds and bolts. See commentary below.]
p8 5.9 Lame pitch, sharp.
p9 5.7 Worse than the last pitch, not recommended - sharp. The summit is very cool though, and you do have the entire wall below you, so pick your poison.

Descent: Rappel the route. Be very careful not to knock off rocks as the upper half of this route is above the Club Mex wall, which can be very busy. It is possible to jump onto a different rappel line that goes straight down the wall, however this is right above the Club Mex wall. Many of these pitches are traversing, so getting down can be kindof a bitch, but it's more than worth the excellent climbing.

Location

Start is about a 10 min. walk up the trail on the North Wall of Las Estrellas canyon. The route starts on a black face next to an obvious gnarly old tree stump.

Protection

Quickdraws. I can't remember how many we brought.

Photos