Type: Sport, 135 ft
FA: Dane Bass & Matt Greco - 2004
Page Views: 2,565 total · 20/month
Shared By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 4, 2008
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


86 Opinions

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Description

15 draws + a 70 meter rope. This is a useful route to pass a slow party starting Estrellita.

Location

2 routes right of Estrellita

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
This is a great climb. It's long, it's got really varied climbing and the crux is near the top. Lots of fun. You need a 70M for this climb. In fact, before you belay, tie a knot in your rope. Mitch lowered me to the slabs and I nearly went through his belay device. Jan 20, 2009
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
 
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
 
Generally agree with 5.9+, but for potrero, could easily be called 5.10a. Feb 5, 2016
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
  5.9
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
  5.9
My favorite single pitch in EPC so far! Definitely some committing moves, but I found this easier and less scary than other 5.9 pitches in EPC (I don't lead harder than 5.9). Though my partner said she found it harder than some 5.10s she led, so I guess it depends on your climbing style.

Lots of fun varied climbing as others said, the biggest crux for me was the chimney / open book at the end, well that and pulling all that rope weight to clip the final bolts.. Definitely bring a 70m. Mar 20, 2017
Fun climb. Did this route as an alternative start to Estrellita. Involved some "mild bushwhacking" to get to the anchor at the start of the 11 pitch. Felt harder than the 10s on the rest of Estrellita. Feb 12, 2018
Did this as an alternate start to Estrellita. To get to the third pitch anchor of Estrellita from the anchor on Mr. Fluffer, got up and left from the anchor on easy, sharp terrain. A small amount of angry vegetation is in the way, but otherwise it's a simple and short scramble over. If you do feel like protecting the scramble, as we did, you can sling a large block on the right that seemed sturdy. Mar 14, 2018