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Routes in Las Estrellas (The Stars)

2 Dead Chipmunks and 1 Dead Beaver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
23 Diablos S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
3 R System S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Channelize Your Hatred S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Curse (of the Furry Beast), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Estrellita S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fully Engaged S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good Kung Fu S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Invisible Seam, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jesus Amarillo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kung Pao Pupert S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Pantera Rosa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Landscaping S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lickety Split S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Los Tres Chiflados (Moe) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Machismo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Marklar S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Marklar Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Fluffer's Wild Ride S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pacheco Poder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Harmonica S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Marklar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rat Bastard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Send it Pink Pocket Express S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Take Me To Your Marklar S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderkiss S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ulack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 1200 ft, 12 pitches
FA: Ed, Craig McCudden, Ismael Garza
Page Views: 21,536 total, 167/month
Shared By: Livia on May 15, 2007
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description

Like most of the multipitch routes at Portrero the pros are getting 1200 feet off the deck while clipping bolts with stunning views. The downsides are loose rock and rattlesnakes. This route has a few loose pitches in areas where knocking rocks could injure climbers below.

I've included the rating as listed in the guidebook although variations can bring this route down to a 5.10b.

P1 5.9
P2 5.9
P3 5.9 (5.11b variation)
P4 5.11a (5.8 variation)
P5 3rd class
P6 5.7
P7 5.7
P8 5.10b
P9 5.9+
P10 5.10b
P11 5.10b
P12 5.8

Location

This is the third canyon from the approach road. The climb is on the East side of the canyon, and the West side of a fin of rock topped by a palm tree. The route is currently the 8th route from the road on this face. I highly recommend buying either one of the bound books for the area or the pamphlet that is available at Tammy's Cafe.

Descent: Despite bolted anchors, do not climb past the 5th pitch unless you are going to finish because you will rap through loose rock over other routes. You rappel off the opposite side of the rock fin that you climbed. Follow fixed rope to first rap station then follow painted arrows for 5 long raps. Walk down Los Lobos Canyon.

Protection

12 quickdraws, at least a 60M rope (many pitches can be linked with a 70M)
James Elric
rockville
James Elric   rockville
Loved it. Super doable for new mutlipitchers. Im stoked if i do 10 pitches in a weekend back home...i expected to die....but the pacing and movement style isnt bad. Forearms never pumped...just exhausted in general.

Super cool views and its like a two for one adventure rapping down the otherside. Def read the beta and photos ahead of time for the rapp...some weird traverses and a spot you really dont wanna get a rope stuck.

Crux was well protected.

Stayed in shade all day (730 to 2pm) ..i wanted to do yankee clipper but we went easily double the pace of tje group on yankee. They were baking while we cruised with the breeze.

It also has a proper summit which was super nice to have on my first ling route Nov 19, 2017
Kevin Patterson
Wellington, New Zealand
 
Kevin Patterson   Wellington, New Zealand
 
Seriously cool route! Did just the first 5p, found them to be more in the order of 5.7, 5.10a, 5.9, 5.8, 3rd. Route was a little hard to find, tag could only be seen when right up next to it so have added a pic of the route start, enjoy :) Nov 18, 2017
Jake Ryan
Gilbert, Arizona
  5.10b/c
Jake Ryan   Gilbert, Arizona
  5.10b/c
Totally worth climbing for the moderate climber! And with only 5 raps after 12 pitches?? RAD. Some way easier stuff, little choss but it is gorgeous and fun climbing! We got nervous at all the reports of rope eating fin on the second rap but had no problem at all with a slow and steady pull. May 30, 2017
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
The .11b pitch on the 3/4 pitch is pretty great. Other than that, the climbing was okay at best. It becomes more and more chossy every pitch past the pitch 5 fixed rope. I would say its worthwile to climb through pitch 4 and then rap. Jan 28, 2017
AOSR
Wherever we park!
 
AOSR   Wherever we park!
 
Only pitch 10 had a move of 10a on it in my opinion - and it was brief. Great casual long route for moderate climbers. Easy to link pitches. Fluffers was a great way to pass the train getting run on the bottom 3 pitches. You can lead Fluffers in one pitch to the third pitch anchors of Estrellita with only a couple long slings - perhaps even to the 4th anchor if you take the 11 variation. Never rap the route, descend into Los Lobos. Jan 4, 2017
Izzy K.
Boulder, CO
 
Izzy K.   Boulder, CO
 
Had fun but I wouldn't recommend this route; I imagine the beautiful summit is what gives it the classic rating.

5.10... Waaaaa? Suuuuuper mellow and meh.

Definitely combine pitches with a 70m rope and 18ish draws. You could easily skip bolts if needed. Jun 23, 2016
Pink Thunder
Lakewood
 
Pink Thunder   Lakewood
 
The vast majority of climbing on this route is crap. There are other, way more high-quality multipitch routes in EPC to spend your time on. Jan 27, 2016
ErikaE  
Beautiful route! The beta on this page was spot on. We didn't link any pitches and it took us about 5 hrs to climb the route. Pitch 10 was the hardest on the route.

The summit register was missing but the box was still there. We left our paper with route beta but it would be great if someone replaced the register. Jan 16, 2016
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
 
Some more tidbits (answering my own questions I had before this first ever long multi-pitch lead).

1+2+3 all together link just fine with a 70m. I wonder if 4 direct could be linked with those too, it's very short. We didn't try.
You cannot really link the fixed rope to avoid switching anchors, it wanders too much. I did walk all the way to the place where fixed rope hits the wall first after finishing pitch 4, and belayed from there with reasonable drag, but if I walked to the starting anchor of the first pitch after the fixed rope (6?) the rope drag would not be manageable. Unless you shortcut thru the forest straight to it I guess?
6+7 (two ramp pitches after the fixed rope) just barely link with a 70m, but the belay is not as good on top of 7, so it would have been better to link 7+8.
Otoh you might be able to link 6+7, 8+9, 10+11+12 (I didn't try 8+9).

Rappels:
Do not rappel with your rope off the first fixed rope anchor on the summit because rope won't pull due to the angle. We are queasy and we didn't know how bad the fixed rope was around the corner, so we rappelled there - it was a PITA; a prussik would suffice on the fixed rope for safety.
Other rappels are straightforward even for a complete beginner (such as myself). First, follow the arrow; then, when you rappel past the gully, look at the palm trees on the edge of the wall for another fixed rope that leads to the next station. All the following rappels are straight down. They don't follow Will The Wolf Survive like some sources indicate. Jan 6, 2016
Molly Zhu
New york
 
Molly Zhu   New york
 
With 60m rope we linked adjacent pitches. 6+7 is more than the length of the rope so we simul climbed ~20ft.

The 11a pitch is much more straightforward than its 5.8 variation. If you are comfortable with the grade, I think it's better to do the 11a to avoid the scary traverse and rope drag.

The 2nd rappel, if I remember correctly, is full rope length (60m + stretch). Nov 19, 2015
Dom Bhuphaibool
San Francisco
Dom Bhuphaibool   San Francisco
An okay climb with a nice view up top. I second Alec about the intermediate rappel off of the palm tree with the fixed line on the second rappel. Our rope got stuck in the gully and I had to climb back up on the fixed rope to retrieve it. That was not fun. Make sure that the palm tree is sturdy though (as I don't know much about palm trees root system). I used the fixed rope to climb up and down so I'm assuming that it's sturdy enough. Jul 11, 2015
Miguel Moore
San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
 
Miguel Moore   San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
 
This was a really fun climb! We climbed this with a 70 and did it in 7 pitches, it worked well especially on the very last rap...don't think a 60 would reach... We started up about 8:30 in the morning and found
both the 5.9 and 9+ right on the money.... didn't feel up for the short 5.11 pitch
but had big fun on the 5.8 traverse... my partner had a little encounter with a small rattlesnake on the 5.7 ramp and it just added to the whole experience! The
next steep pitch (9+?) was super fun and the first time we noticed the big air...
And then the series of 5.10 ramps to the top! The raps got our blood pumping as it is a long way down! Only us and a couple of other climbers in the park and not all that hot for the third week in June, could have been a lot worse and thank goodness the rain held off until later that night! Had to watch out for the centipedes, there was a bunch of them all the way up! Also a big nod to the crew that did all of the drilling! Muchas Gracias! Jun 22, 2015
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I second Tim's comment about linking the pitches; will save you tons of time and we had no problem with a 70M. Not a single pitch on this route is a classic. And the placement of the rap bolts leaves a lot to be desired but... it all adds up to a pretty cool experience. Awesome summit. A must-do for Potrero! Mar 19, 2015
Tim Fry
Charlotte NC
 
Tim Fry   Charlotte NC
 
With a 70, this route links into 5 pitches pretty nicely. We did 1&2, 3&4 (P3 direct version), then for 6&7 belay from the anchors at the start of the ramp (You don't need to use the anchors but it's nicer to stand on the ground, and the rope still reaches). Run 8&9 together, then 10, 11, and 12 together to the summit.

We had no problems with the standard raps. I dunno about rapping off of palm trees...I really don't know if a palm tree has a good root system or not. Mar 3, 2015
Alec LaLonde
  5.10d
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10d
Rather overrated - last few pitches are fun though, get you some offwidth! The second rappel (over the gully) is a notorious rope-eater. Do an intermediate rappel from the lip of the gully (off the palm tree with the fixed line) rather than rappelling that extra 40 feet. Feb 12, 2015
tsouth  
Super mellow route. 5.11a pitch is a 3 move crux. Did it in 5 pitches. Brought 24 draws, 6 of which were extendables. Linked pitch 1-2, 3-4 walked up the 3rd class to a bolt then linked pitch 6-8 pitch 9-10 and last linked pitch 11-12. Doesn't really make sense not to link the pitches just take care with the rope drag. 70m works for all linkups described. As mentioned one of the fixed lines on the summit is in rough shape could use replacing. Feb 10, 2015
Jeff Oslik
Tucson, AZ
 
Jeff Oslik   Tucson, AZ
 
Using a 70, we were able to link pitches 6 and 7 with about 8 feet to spare, and pitches 10, 11, and 12 with about 2 feet to spare. Rope drag was wicked bad though. There are two parallel fixed rap lines at the top that allow you to get to the first rap station. One of them has a large section where the core is exposed, just fyi. Rapped on the other using a grigri just fine. Jan 15, 2015
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
Andrew Mayer   Driggs, ID
did Fluffer's wild ride (9+) to bypass the apparently lackluster first 3 pitches of Estrellita and found it slightly more difficult than any of the 10a/b pitches higher up. was a great pitch though.

also, know that pitch 6 (after the 3rd class section) is very easy (5.2 perhaps) at the start so doesn't have a bolt for perhaps 50 ft.

I thought the off width crux looked a lot like Kor Ingalls on Castleton Tower but slightly narrower and with abundant face holds and therefore much easier.

Overall a great, moderate route. Can easily link many of the pitches. Dec 24, 2014
Mark Grundon  
 
For a free online topo visit:
Estrellita Topo Oct 29, 2014
This climb is awesome & a Potrero must do! Give yourself time to be casual on the summit & take in the views! We had the rare opportunity to have the summit to ourselves. It made my last day in Potrero fabulous! Jan 7, 2014
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Super Cruiser! Every pitch is mellow, even the 5.11 is short and over before you know it. Classic moderate multipitch! The third to last and second to last pitches are by far the most fun so try to lead them if you get a chance. I was just down there this winter (2011/2012) and there was a huge gnarly loose block at the last bolt of the last pitch so beware, the whole last pitch is a crap shoot anyway. The rappel kind blows but its work it! Jan 10, 2012
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
 
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
 
I was not impressed with this route. I felt the only good pitches were at top. The first pitches were not all that great in my opinion. Both 5.11 variations are worth the effort to make the route harder. Still nice to get up and props for the bolting! Feb 28, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Nowhere near 1200' tall. By way of example, P1+P2 were maybe 140' not 200. P3+P4 was perhaps 120' not 200. Etc...
We linked pitches constantly and never came close to running out of rope. Jan 1, 2010
JeanGClimbs
Reading, VT
JeanGClimbs   Reading, VT
An easy moderate cruise doing the easier variation pitches. Fun outing! Apr 4, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
If you are a strong 5.9 leader, you can lead this climb. The tens are soft and it doesn not feel very exposed. It's a great climb with a really great rap. Use the fixed line if your rope gets stuck between the fins (yes, this happened to us...) You can link several pitches on this climb, just make sure you carry 24 draws. Jan 20, 2009
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
Perfect beta for the route konopa. In the new paperbound guide all of your 10a pitches are listed at 10b. The only one that really warrants a 10 grade at all was the 10th pitch where you either need to do some committing laybacking or offwidth technique to grovel up past the crux. All of the other '10s' were super chill and never felt desperate at all - ie great feet and nice jugs, although like most routes there, some of the jugs are hard to find!

Note you can also climb mr fluffers wild ride (a great long 5.9) to skip the first 3 5.9s. once you hit the anchors you can shwack it up and left to the anchors at the base of the 11a variation. Dec 17, 2008
My hands were raw from climbing Dope Ninja yesterday, so we thought that we would do just the first few pitches and call it a day. We left Posadas at noon or so. Part way up it was only 2pm, so we decided to do the whole thing. I struggled on Dope Ninja, but did fine on this climb; and my hands enjoyed the fact that the rock was not nearly as sharp. I thought I would add a little to the description above:

This climb is to the right of Rat Bastard, which you can identify by the cold shut anchor.

P1: 5.9 Climb up, angling slightly right to an anchor left of a dead palm tree. 90 feet. semi-hanging belay.

P2: 5.9 Continue up, then climb thru a huge flake (don't tug too hard) to a nice belay. 80 feet or so.

P3: 5.9 Climb ramp to your right 50 feet to a nice belay. Alt take the bolt line straight up for 5.11b

P4: 5.8 We took the easier traverse to the left. From the belay you can see the first 4 bolts. Climb up onto ridge and finish above your belayer. Alt take the bolt line straight up for about 30 feet to the same belay 5.11a.

P5: 3rd class. Unrope and follow fixed rope for about 100 feet to a bolted anchor. Then follow trail up and right for about 100 feet to a ramp with bolts on it.

P6: 5.7 Climb edges in ramp for about 70 feet to an anchor.

P7: 5.7 Climb more edges in ramp for another 70 feet or so to an anchor.

P8: 5.10a The ramp steepens, but the holds are still good. Move up and near the top climb left to the anchors. 50 feet.

P9: 5.9 Shift to anchors on left and climb up almost a chimney at times to another good belay stance. 100 feet.

P10: 5.10a Climb dihedral using some crack technique or just face climb at a slightly harder grade. 60 feet.

P11: 5.10a Continue climbing dihedral using some crack technique or just face climb at a slightly harder grade. 60 feet. I like how all the bolts are on the left wall.

P12: 5.8 I did some chimney technique, but my partner face climbed it because she had a backpack on. Approx 70 feet.

Note: on the second rappel down the backside, there is a second fixed rope to lead you where to go. It is very squeaky to rap the fixed rope, but you may need it to retreive your rope if it gets stuck around a tree on the ledge above. All other raps are piece of cake. Walk down the easy to follow trail. Dec 19, 2007
Livia
Moose Jaw, SK
 
Livia   Moose Jaw, SK
 
Ti-Fou asked me to marry him by writing "will you marry me" in the register at the summit of this climb. May 15, 2007