Inventando que sueño
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
| Type: | Sport, 754 ft (228 m), 8 pitches |
| GPS: | 25.95042, -100.47577 |
| FA: | Alvaro Peiró, Matthew Moss, november 2023 |
| Page Views: | 587 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Pop Peiro on Nov 30, 2023 |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
A new challenging multipitch route in Las Estrellas Canyon.
Grounded up by Alvaro Peiro during the season 22-23.
FA by Alvaro Peiro and Matthew Moss in nov 2023
FFA by Jesse Rubenstein in jan 4, 2024
First Repetition by Alvaro Peiro in jan 12, 2024
- Gear: 20 quickdraws (some slings are useful),
70m rope
- Approach: hike up Las Estrellas Canyon trail. The first pitch is located between the routes “Ulack” and “Curse of the Furry Beast”, just before getting in to Club Mex Wall.
- Descent: the fastest and easiest way to get down is using the same rappels than the popular multipitch “Estrellita”. You should climb a short last pitch from R8 to get into Estrellita’s summit. In case you need to rappel down the route you can do it with a 70m rope. Using quickdraws for guiding the rappels are helpful in some pitches. You can skip the 2nd pitch (traverse) and rappel straight to the anchors of the route that is by the side.
- Climb: the route goes by the middle of Las Estrellas main wall. Sustained and technical climbing through dihedrals, traverses, cracks, steep walls and slabs. The rock is pretty solid but it is still sandy and chossy in some parts, but cleaned of rocks and blocks. Linking pitches is not recommended. A challenging route for strong climbers that wanna try hard multipitches!
L1: 30m/12a
L2: 25m/12b
L3: 20m/12a
L4: 35m/10d
L5: 30m/12c
L6: 35m/12b
L7: 20m/11b
L8: 25m/12b



2 Comments