Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Test Pilots Buttress

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backdoor Man T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Co-Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakes of Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Focus T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Gimme three steps... T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kennedy Space Port T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kosmonauts T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocket Science T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Space Monkey T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Test Pilots S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weight and Balance Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Z Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Chris Caldwell, Bruce Burgess
Page Views: 1,202 total, 10/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Steep face climbing thats somewhat spicey.

Location

Starts 10 ft right of Test Pilots at a crack. Crank the 20 ft 5.10 crack. Step right at the bush and head up the face on bolts and gear. After the last bolt, do the run out and then step right to a Tim Fisher and Nathan Brown stainless hex natural anchor.

Protection

tcu's up to green camalots

Photos

Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
  5.11c PG13
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
  5.11c PG13
I love this pitch. The upper face contains three fantastic back to back sequences that involve using unique holds on perfect rock. I consider this a "local classic". Sure, there's a bush which detracts from the aesthetics of the line, but the climbing that surrounds it is burly and requires a diverse set of skills. Highly recommended! Dec 17, 2014
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
If it weren't for the funky bush action, and the easy but runout finish, this thing would get 4 stars. The face climbing in the middle is excellent!

Edit: Just beefed up the nut anchor today with an additional hex (stainless cable) and better equalization of the anchor. Jan 7, 2013
Robert Hutchins
  5.11
Robert Hutchins  
  5.11
Great pitch, and much steeper than it looks. Quite a mixed bag with 5.10 finger crack (with Z Crack start) to a bush climb, to steep 5.11 face, to 5.10+ (?) bulge pull to a 5.9R heady slab finish. Should be in the rotation for local 5.11 gear climbers. The bad bolts that were likely the reason for this route's obscurity for so many years have been replace. Dec 21, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.11b/c R
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.11b/c R
Love the garden hose on the anchor cables. Jan 24, 2011