Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Chris Caldwell, Bruce Burgess
Page Views: 1,407 total · 10/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Steep face climbing thats somewhat spicey.

Location

Starts 10 ft right of Test Pilots at a crack. Crank the 20 ft 5.10 crack. Step right at the bush and head up the face on bolts and gear. After the last bolt, do the run out and then step right to a Tim Fisher and Nathan Brown stainless hex natural anchor.

Protection

tcu's up to green camalots

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.11b/c R
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.11b/c R
Love the garden hose on the anchor cables. Jan 24, 2011
Robert Hutchins
  5.11
Robert Hutchins  
  5.11
Great pitch, and much steeper than it looks. Quite a mixed bag with 5.10 finger crack (with Z Crack start) to a bush climb, to steep 5.11 face, to 5.10+ (?) bulge pull to a 5.9R heady slab finish. Should be in the rotation for local 5.11 gear climbers. The bad bolts that were likely the reason for this route's obscurity for so many years have been replace. Dec 21, 2011
nbrown
WNC/Broomfield, CO
 
nbrown   WNC/Broomfield, CO
 
If it weren't for the funky bush action, and the easy but runout finish, this thing would get 4 stars. The face climbing in the middle is excellent!

Edit: Just beefed up the nut anchor today with an additional hex (stainless cable) and better equalization of the anchor. Jan 7, 2013
Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
  5.11c PG13
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
  5.11c PG13
I love this pitch. The upper face contains three fantastic back to back sequences that involve using unique holds on perfect rock. I consider this a "local classic". Sure, there's a bush which detracts from the aesthetics of the line, but the climbing that surrounds it is burly and requires a diverse set of skills. Highly recommended! Dec 17, 2014